Drohmo | 1998 S Pillar of Central Smt

A UK expedition to Drohmo in 1998 via S Pillar of Central Smt, led by Doug Scott. Summit reached on 8th October 1998. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	3211
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	DROM98301
Peak ID	DROM
Year	1998
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	S Pillar of Central Smt
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	UK
Leaders	Doug Scott
Sponsor	British to Drohmo
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1998-10-01
Summit Date	1998-10-08
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	7
Total Days	8
Termination Date	1998-10-09
Termination Reason	2
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	6855
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	200
Total Members	2
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-983-01)
Campsites	BC(01/10,5400m),ABC(02/10,5800m),C1.Biv(05/10,6270m),C2.Biv(06/10,6600m),C3.Biv(07/10,6750m),Central.Smt(08/10,6855m)
Route Notes	BC at "rock camp" of Tengkoma ABC at glacier camp. 2nd Oct to head of glacier at foot of South Face for ascent of South Pillar and camped here. Fixed 200m slope from glacier to foot of pillar on 3rd Oct. Mountain 3 km long with about 5 peaks. 4th took gear up, ropes and dumped at bottom of pillar. 5th went up ropes, pulled 2 ropes out and climbed on steep pillar 4 pitches to 5270m and biv. 6th did more pitches up pillar to ice grotto and biv here at 6600m. 7th 4 more pitches to above "cauliflower" on pillar at about 6750m. 8 Oct to top of pillar and then left (west) on east-west ridge to central summit, 6855m high, which could be the highest summit of Drohmo (a Finnish map says west summit is 36m higher, but "from visual inspection I would not have thought so"). "Scared all the time" because inadequate belay points were "a bit unnerving"; heavy monsoon had brought much snow. 500 ft of climbing zigzagging up pillar in difficult climb; when found rock it was good granite but pillar mostly snow and ice; luckily had five days good weather. 8th slept at 6750m biv, 9th at 5800m camp. Technically hardest climb Scott done since Shivaling East Pillar in 1981 - hard because carrying huge weights. Had to carry for alpine-style ascent. "Very satisfying trip." Took 4 gas cylinders and 4 days food. 21 abseils and 4 pitches of rock climbing. Mear did much of lead climbing: lighter weight and younger than Scott.
Accidents	-
Achievement	1st ascent of Central Summit
Agency	Explore Himalaya
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	True
Primary ID	TENG98301
Checksum	2457098
Year	1998
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	s pillar of central smt

Members

Field	Value
ID	23117
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DROM98301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	DROM
Year	1998
Season	3
First Name	Roger P.
Last Name	Mear
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1950
Calculated Age	48
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6855
Summit Date 1	1998-10-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	2431300
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	roger p. mear
Year of Birth	1950
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	48
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	23118
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DROM98301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	DROM
Year	1998
Season	3
First Name	Douglas Keith (Doug)
Last Name	Scott
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1941
Calculated Age	57
Citizenship	UK
Status	Leader
Residence	Carlisle, Cumbria, England
Occupation	Author
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6855
Summit Date 1	1998-10-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1941-2020) Died 7 Dec 2020
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	2428125
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	douglas keith (doug) scott
Year of Birth	1941
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	57
Role	Leader

2 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Roger P. Mear	M	1950	UK	Climber	Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott	M	1941	UK	Leader	Carlisle, Cumbria, England	Author	Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.