Drohmo | 2007 SE Face-Middle Smt

A Slovenia expedition to Drohmo in 2007 via SE Face-Middle Smt, led by Tone Skarja. Summit reached on 16th October 2007. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5881
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DROM07301
Peak ID DROM
Year 2007
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-Middle Smt
Route 2 S Face-East Smt
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Tone Skarja
Sponsor Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier->Pangpema
Basecamp Date 2007-10-09
Summit Date 2007-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 19
Termination Date 2007-10-28
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6855
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Recon Kangbachen (KANB-073-01), climbed Pathibhara Chuli (PYRM-073-01), attempted Kirat Chuli (KIRA-073-01) and Ramtang Chang (RAMC-073-01)
Campsites BC(09/10,4940m),Middle Smt(16/10,6855m);Biv1(24/10,5900m),E Smt(25/10,6695m)
Route Notes Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition - 7 November 2007 (Useful maps: Nepal Map "Trekking Around Kangchenjunga" and HMG map "Jhinsan Peak" sheet No. 2788-01) The expedition attacked the following peaks: 1. Unnamed peak (6630m/21,172 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli. 2. Drohmo (6881m/22,575 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli. 3. Pathibhara Chuli, aka Pyramid Peak, (7140m/23,425 ft) on Tibetan border north of Kirat Chuli. 4. Kirat Chuli, aka Tent Peak, (7362m/24,154 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak. 5. Ramtang Chang, aka Chang Himal or Wedge Peak, (6802m/22,316 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak. The expedition planned to attempt Kangbachen or failing that, Kirat Chuli. Their approach march was from Taplejung up Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola past Ramtang village to the opening of the Ramtang Glacier. On 8 October, they went two kilometers east-southeast up the Ramtang Glacier and found a big lake and rock falling off of the ridges to their left and right. Beyond the lake, the terrain was very rocky, and they decided to forget about Kangbachen. On the 9th, they went back to the mouth of the Ramtang Glacier, continued up the Ghunsa Khola to Lhonak and east on north side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier to Pangpema, where they made their BC at 4940m for Kirat Chuli. On the 11th, they made an acclimatization trek north of Pangpema. On the 14th-16th, more acclimatization to an unnamed 6630m peak: Lorencic and Valic summited it via its SW Ridge on the 16th. Next the 6855m middle summit of Drohmo was attacked by Cuder and Kladnik via its SE Face, which was bare rock at the foot but higher up it was all ice and 60 degrees steep. They reached this summit on 16 October. On 21 October they began their final reconnaissance of Kirat Chuli. Cuder and Kladnik, with a Sherpa carry, put up tents for ABC at 5600m to attack the mountain's West Face via the same route unsuccessfully attempted by Slovenian team in autumn 2000 and autumn 2002. On the 22nd they went to 5800m to the bottom of the face, and stopped there. On their return to BC, they reported that the route was impossible: there was knee-deep snow and avalanching. The decision was taken not to try to climb Kirat Chuli. At the same time Lorencic and Valic went east from Pangpema on 21 October into the West Kangpo Glacier for a climb of Pathibhara Chuli by its SW Face. They bivouacked that day at 6900m below the rock step. On the 24th they reached the summit up the 1100m high face, then 60 degrees of mixed rock, ice and snow. They descended to 5600m that day and on the 25th were back in Pangpema BC. Meanwhile Kozelj and Sorn attacked Ramtang Chang, which is across the Kangchenjunga Glacier from Pangpema (i.e., it is on the south side). On the 21st they bivouacked at 5600m. On the next day they climbed to 6700m up the 70-degree North Face, which was rock covered by soft snow. Because of the poor snow condition, they abandoned the climb and returned to BC the same day. Now back to Drohmo. Kladnik, Kozelj and Sorn climbed the East Peak (6695m). On 24 October they bivouacked at 5900m and on the 25th they scaled its 900m South Face of mixed rock, ice and snow, at places 60 degrees steep. They were on the summit and returned to BC that day. They had now finished their climbing, and they left BC on the 28th to return to Kathmandu. Skarja observed that the glaciers in this area were very difficult from the Nepalese side of the border mountains, not such a big problem on the Sikkimese/Indian side but dangerous.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member True
Primary Reference True
Primary ID KANB07301
Checksum 2460402
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-middle smt

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tine Cuder M 1979 Slovenia Climber Bovec, Slovenia Farmer Details Other expeditions
Matej Kladnik M 1983 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions
Ales Kozelj M 1974 Slovenia Climber Stahovica, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Anton (Tone) Skarja M 1937 Slovenia Leader Menges, Slovenia Retired electro-technician Details Other expeditions
Mitja Sorn M 1979 Slovenia Climber Blejska Dobrava, Slovenia Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.