Drangnag Ri | 2018 SW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Drangnag Ri in 2018 via SW Ridge, led by Mikel Zabalza. Summit reached on 18th October 2018. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10054
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DRAN18301
Peak ID DRAN
Year 2018
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Mikel Zabalza
Sponsor Spanish Drangnag Ri Expedition 2018
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jagat->Simigaon->Beding->Na BC
Basecamp Date 2018-10-02
Summit Date 2018-10-18
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 16
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2018-10-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6757
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited unnamed 5960m peak east of Langdung
Campsites BC(02/10,4150m),C1(06/10,5000m),C2(16/10,5700m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(18/10)
Route Notes BC 02/10 4150m (Na village) C1 06/10 5000m (12kms from BC, afoot of the ridge) C2 16/10 5700m C3 17/10 6400m (back to C3 after summit) Smt 18/19 by all members at 1:30 pm. Intended SE Ridge first, which was attempted in the past years by a French team (Patrick Wagnon/Dorian Labaeye) and last year by a "Grit and Rock" sponsored team. Found the access to the ridge in too dry and dangerous conditions this year, so changed their plans for the SW Ridge instead. Ascent schedule: October 15: BC to C1. October 16: C1 to C2. October 17: C2 to C3. Main difficulties begun on that day. October 18: main difficulties ended on that day, then team exited by Bruce Normand route. The two ropes reached the top in the middle of a stronger wind than desired: it blew with a force of between 40 and 50 km/h, with gusts of up to 70 km/h. Bivouacked back to 6400m on that evening. October 19: abseiling and back crossing a lot from 6400m bivy to 5000 meters C1. October 20: back to BC. Difficulties maintained from 6100 to 6600m, which is the second part of the route. Stretches there of AI5, V grade rock and also mixed terrain. The final part of the climb coincides with Bruce Normand's route 2005. Name of the route: “Bizipenak”, which means "experiences" in Basque language. Mikel Zabalza, who added with Drangnag Ri his 37th expedition outside Europe, says that Bizipenak "is one of the most beautiful routes that I have climbed in the Himalayas." Team left BC on October 25. Other peaks: a peak of 5960m with no name on the border with Tibet, east of Langdung Peak, for acclimatization.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of the SW Ridge in alpine style
Agency Annapurna Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460788
Year 2018
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Miguel (Mikel) Zabalza Azkona M 1970 Spain Leader Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Inaki Arakistain Arrieta M 1984 Spain Climber Azkoitia, Guipuzkoa, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions
Alberto Fernandez Santiago M 1988 Spain Climber Elgoibar, Guipuzkoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Joseba Larranaga Sudupe M 1984 Spain Climber Azkoitia, Guipuzkoa, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DRAN18301 - - https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/las-vivencias-en-el-drangnag-ri-de-mikel-zabalza-alberto-fernandez-joseba-larranaga-e-inaki-arakistain/ - - -
DRAN18301 - - http://www.mountainblog.it/redazionale/mikel-zabalza-alberto-fernandez-joseba-larranaga-inaki-arakistain-aprono-nuova-via-nel-drangnag-ri-6801-m/ - - -
DRAN18301 AAJ - Drangnag Ri, Southwest Ridge, Bizipenak - 93:318-319 (2019) -
DRAN18301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215092 - - -