Dorje Lhakpa | 1992 W Ridge

A USA expedition to Dorje Lhakpa in 1992 via W Ridge, led by Carlos Buhler. Summit reached on 13th April 1992. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1074
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DORJ92101
Peak ID DORJ
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Carlos Buhler
Sponsor 1992 International Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-04-02
Summit Date 1992-04-13
Summit Time 1355
Summit Days 11
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1992-05-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6966
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,4850m),Biv1(07-08/04,5500m),Biv2(12/04,5800m),Smt(13/04)
Route Notes BC at Langshisa Glacier just north of Karshuram on MT map. Buhler soloed climb because of Aylward's illness and because of it, did not attempt near route as originally planned. Had to ferry loads from a pre-BC which reached on 27th March at 4680m because most porters didn't want to go beyond (didn't want to go onto glacier). Buhler and Lhakpa Dorje went to col (a trekking route) to acclimatization on 4th April and again on 7th. On 7th put tent just above col and slept there 2 nights; Lhakpa Dorje decided wouldn't climb hard blue ice, very sharp ridge and they had no rope to fix. 8th Buhler climbed up ridge to 6100m to acclimatize and see route. 9th took tent down and descended to BC, assuming would try new route on NW Face. At BC found Alyward not fit to climb; suggested Aylward go down to Kyangjin Gamapa village while Buhler went up ridge ("I was terrified of it - it's very exposed"). 12th Buhler left BC at 7:30 am and climbed to 5800m on West Ridge. 13th went to top ("it was quite hard for me - I almost turned around 3 or 4 times - I found it exposed, delicate climbing with problems quite hard for me to solve by myself"). Left biv at 5:00 am on 13th and on top at 1:55 pm. Problems were an exposed knife-edge ridge front pointing much of the way on ridge; number of broken seracs & big crevasse; had to leave ridge at 6300m and go over to snow face; fell into a crevasse at big bergschrund across face, climbed out of it, and managed finally got over this bergschrund, the most difficult part of the climb. "I reached the top quite nervous about the descent" in perfect weather; did not actually have serious problems in descent but moved very slowly, used other team's fixed ropes where available and took 8 hrs to return to biv at 10:00 pm at 5800m, exhausted in 14th to BC. Alyward returned to BC same day. Buhler took 5 days rest while Aylward and Lhakpa Dorje went up for acclimatization, for 2 days. Then 2 members to 5800m to see possible route on NW Face, returned to BC (now last 10 days of April in which snow in afternoons but hoped for clearing of weather); when by 1st May there was too much snow on mountain and gave up.
Accidents Aylward (altitude?) & went to nearest village for 4 days (went to 5800m only)
Achievement 1st American ascent
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454723
Year 1992
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jonathan Aylward M 1956 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Secondary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Carlos Paltenghe Rockhold Buhler M 1954 USA Leader Bellingham, Washington Lecturer, business management techniques Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DORJ92101 HJ Buhler, Carlos Dorje Lakpa, 1992 - 49:15-25 (1991-1992) -
DORJ92101 AAJ Buhler, Carlos Alone on Dorje Lhakpa - 67:19-26 (1993) -
DORJ92101 HIGH - - - 122:5 (Jan 1993) -
DORJ92101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199301900/Alone-on-Dorje-Lhakpa - - -
DORJ92101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/49/3/dorje-lhakpa-1992/ - - -