Dorje Lhakpa | 1986 W Ridge

A W Germany expedition to Dorje Lhakpa in 1986 via W Ridge, led by Klaus Stark. Summit reached on 7th November 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 913
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DORJ86301
Peak ID DORJ
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Klaus Stark
Sponsor Bavarian Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From S via Balephi Khola
Basecamp Date 1986-10-24
Summit Date 1986-11-07
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 14
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6966
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/10,4500m),C1(26/10,5500m),C2(31/10,6100m),Smt(07/11),Biv(07/11,6700m)
Route Notes BC just east of south end of ridge running south from point 14,180 ft C1 below West Ridge C2 on West Ridge. 1st summit bid on 6th Nov from C2 failed because started late (at 8:00 am) and turned back at 6660m to C2. Next day Mayer started up at 6:30 am and Mueller at 7:00 am (Mueller tried from 6th Nov attempt and not sure whether he would go up again). Mayer on top at 2:30 pm and returned to C2 at 8:00 pm while Mueller moving very slowly got to top in 12 hrs (on top at 7:00 pm) and biv at 6660m with biv gear 8:30 pm. 8th Nov to C2 at 10:00 am and slept there while Mayer to BC same day. Ridge safe and easy ice climbing in good ice conditions. Used no fixed rope (found many fixed ropes from Japanese) except on one steep section below C2 at Sherpas request. Actual approach via Chautara, Tempathang and Balephi Khola to Panch Pokhari. South Ridge and South Face are possible route, but face had many icefalls and dangerous seracs.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452733
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bernd Alexander Mayer M 1955 W Germany Exp Doctor Landshut, Bavaria, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Helmut Mueller M 1936 W Germany Climber Nuernberg, Bavaria, W Germany Traffic engineer Details Other expeditions
Thomas Oeser M 1958 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Mathias Rau M 1951 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Sales manager, sporting-clothing wholesale company Details Other expeditions
Klaus Stark M 1953 W Germany Leader Taufkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Lithographer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DORJ86301 AAJ Oeser, Thomas - - 61:244 (1987) -
DORJ86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724401/Asia-Nepal-Dorje-Lhakpa - - -