Dorje Lhakpa | 2021 S Face

A Spain expedition to Dorje Lhakpa in 2021 via S Face, led by Mikel Zabalza. Summit reached on 25th October 2021. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10698
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DORJ21301
Peak ID DORJ
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 SW Face (to 6100m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Mikel Zabalza
Sponsor FEDME Mt. Dorje Lakpa Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By bus to Thulo Bhotang, trekked north to BC
Basecamp Date 2021-10-06
Summit Date 2021-10-25
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 2021-10-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6966
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Kanshurm/Lingsing
Campsites BC(06/10,4200m),ABC(4900m),Biv1(24/10,5700m),Smt(25/10),Biv2(25/10,6100m)
Route Notes Approach: bus to Thulo Bhotang (1850m), then by foot to Brongdo (2700m), Nasimpati (3700m), Panch Pokhari (4100m), a place close to Tin Pokhari (3800m) and Base Camp. The last place where there are houses is Panch Pokhari. BC 05/10 4200m ABC 08/10 4900m Biv1 24/10 5700m Biv2 25/10 6100m Smt 25/10 by Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz, Mikel Inoriza at 4 pm. Acclimatization on Kanshurm (or Linsin/Lingshing Himal) (east of URKM, 6074m) by the NE to E Ridge. An unclimbed peak officially (not listed in the Ministry's list). From Oct 14 to 16, the 6 members reached a high point of 5950m; crew was divided into 2 teams of 3 members, following each other by a day (first wave high point on 15 Oct, second on 16 Oct). “We notice a beautiful ridge that comes out of the same hill of the West Ridge towards the Urkinmang Peak (6187m) and that is full of gendarmes and secondary peaks. To acclimatize we go to the east edge of this ridge and ascend to one of its tips (5950m). For this we bivouac at 5300m and 5600m, respectively. Beautiful ridge in which we find some rock steps up to 5º. Then as soon as we finished our acclimatization, an unusual period of bad weather entered that had us standing for more than a week. 5 consecutive days of rains at the base that left almost a meter and a half of snow on the glacier put us on the ropes.” Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz, Mikel Inoriza climbed the S Face, while Ruben San Martín, Javi Guzman and Ander Zabalza tried the SW Face. Both teams shared the approach to the 5700m bivouac. Schedule: 23/10: from BC to ABC. 24/10: up the WSW glacier, bivy at 5700m. 25/10: For both Mikel and Iker, summit by the S Face (850m/55 to 65° slope in snow and ice), descent down to a bivy at 6100m of the WSW glacier, reached at 7:30 pm. Meanwhile, Ruben, Javi and Ander tried without success an other line on the peak's SW Face up to 6100m and came back down to BC on same day. 26/10: Summit trio back down to BC. Route generally much covered with snow, involving hard trail breaking. Up and down by the same route, when intended first to go down by the classic W Ridge route. Left BC on 30/10. Leader Mikel Zabalza had tried the mountain entering from the north (Langtang Valley) in 1992.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of S Face
Agency Dream Carrier Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464594
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Miguel (Mikel) Zabalza Azkona M 1970 Spain Leader Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Javier Guzman Algarrada M 1995 Spain Climber Guadalix de la Sierra, Madrid, Spain - Details Other expeditions
Mikel Inoriza Serrano M 1996 Spain Climber Vitoria-Gasteiz, Alava, Spain - Details Other expeditions
Iker Madoz Campistegui M 1993 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Student Details Other expeditions
Ruben San Martin Escorihuela M 1989 Spain Climber Aragon, Spain - Details Other expeditions
Ander Zabalza Garcia M 1995 Spain Climber Navarra, Spain - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DORJ21301 - - https://www.ternua.com/es/blog/cumbre-dorje-lakpa/ - - -
DORJ21301 - - https://canalfedme.es/expedicion-al-dorje-lakpa-6966m-del-equipo-espanol-de-alpinismo/ - - -
DORJ21301 - - https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/mikel-zabalza-iker-madoz-y-mikel-inoriza-hacen-cumbre-en-el-dorje-lhakpa/ - - -
DORJ21301 - - https://www.diariodenavarra.es/noticias/deportes/montana/2021/09/23/tres-decadas-dorje-lakpa-501593-2015.html - - -
DORJ21301 AAJ Zabalza, Mikel Dorje Lakpa, South Face, and Other Routes - 96:278-279 (2022) -
DORJ21301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216077 - - -