Dorje Lhakpa | 2000 NW Face (W Wall)-W Ridge

A Slovenia expedition to Dorje Lhakpa in 2000 via NW Face (W Wall)-W Ridge, led by Andrej Zaman. Summit reached on 25th October 2000. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3716
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DORJ00302
Peak ID DORJ
Year 2000
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face (W Wall)-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Andrej Zaman
Sponsor Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2000-10-16
Summit Date 2000-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2000-10-26
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to Zaman's death
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16,21/10,4800m),xxx(25/10,6500m)
Route Notes BC at Langshisa Glacier C1 below West Wall (NW face). Zaman's plan was to climb West Ridge for acclimatization and then descend to BC and climb West Face to West Ridge (actually Face/Wall is a NW Face) - West Face to 6500m. He climbed up West Ridge 18 or 19 Oct to 6200m (French C2) but returned same day to BC. "This was reason for his death," Subic thinks, "or one of most important reasons" because not properly acclimatized. 24 Oct about 6:30 am climbed almost to top of West Face at 6400m or more and intended to sleep there but perhaps unable to find space enough to use sleeping bag and biv bag. 25 Oct 8:00 am he called again and was 20m below ridge 6500m therefore end of wall. He called again about 9:00 said he was exhausted, very cold and getting pulmonary edema (sounded like he had developed cerebral edema) asked for help from French, who were in C2 (they said they could not help because they were exhausted and very cold) and his collegues encouraged him to go to ridge. He was seen to be about 2m below cornice on ridge and unable to climb cornice, then fell (seen falling) about 1000m to bottom of wall where he had started off climbing this wall on glacier. Today 1 student and sirdar buried body on glacier. He had lost his backpack that morning. 2 Nov 2000 - French Dorje Lhakpa expedition leader Michel Pelle agreed Slovenian had asked them to rescue him, but all French were in C2 and would have taken them at least 5 hours to reach him with technical difficulties in their way and French were too tired to try. Slovenian died about 1-1/2 hours after his appeal for assistance.
Accidents Fatal fall by Zaman
Achievement -
Agency Holiday Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457803
Year 2000
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face (w wall)-w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrej Zaman M 1976 Slovenia Leader Trzic, Slovenia Graphic designer Details Other expeditions
Tjasa Subic F 1974 Slovenia Climber Kranj, Slovenia Physician Details Other expeditions
Bostjan Jerman M 1980 Slovenia Climber Novo Mesto, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions
Marjan Hosta M 1974 Slovenia Deputy Leader Novo Mesto, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DORJ00302 HIGH - - - 226:63 (Sep 2001) -