Dolma Khang | 2017 SW Face-W Ridge

A Norway expedition to Dolma Khang in 2017 via SW Face-W Ridge, led by Tore Sunde-Rasmussen. Summit reached on 5th November 2017. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9650
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DOLM17301
Peak ID DOLM
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Norway
Leaders Tore Sunde-Rasmussen
Sponsor Norwegian Dolma Khang Expedition 2017
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By helicopter from Kathmandu to BC via Beding
Basecamp Date 2017-10-31
Summit Date 2017-11-05
Summit Time 1010
Summit Days 5
Total Days 6
Termination Date 2017-11-06
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes Summited nearby 5840m subpeak of Dolma Khang
High Point (m) 5840
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed 5840m unnamed peak near Dolma Khang
Campsites BC(31/10,4750m),xxx(05/11,5840m)
Route Notes Note: team initially thought that they had climbed Dolma Khang (6332m), but later determined that they climbed a nearby 5840m unnamed subpeak. BC 31/10 4750m located on rocks at south site of mountain right under the S Face Smt 05/11 by Rasmussen, Dawa Tashi, Thundu, Tamting at 10:10 am. Left BC on 6 Nov by helicopter from BC to Ktmdu. Route: ascent on SW Face, maybe last bit on [North]West Ridge (Rasmussen not sure). Descent via same route. Mountain lies on Tibetan border, just SE of Gaurishankar, between Gaurishankar and Beding Go. Rasmussen wanted to climb Ramdung initially, then he found out that it has been climbed already and Lakpa from Ascent Himalayas came up with Dolma Khang as another option. Total expedition consisted of Rasmussen, three climbing Sherpas, one cook, two cook assistants. Sherpas had spent 18 days locating the mountain and preparing BC before Rasmussen flew in by helicopter. Rasmussen had no prior acclimatization and suffered from strong headache first few days at BC. On summit day he and 3 Sherpas started from BC at 2:30 am. They went straight for the summit from BC, no high camps. Some sections were tricky, scree slopes with a lot of lose rocks. Some climbing as steep as 80-degrees, maybe 4+ according to him. A lot of rockfall, Rasmussen was hit by small rocks on helmet and arms, got some bruises. Section reminded him of his climb on Ama Dablam, but more dangerous. After steep part they reached a ridge, very narrow ridge, Rasmussen more or less crawled along ridge because it was so exposed, Sherpas walked normally. Didn't follow whole ridge to summit, but traversed slope a few meters below summit. From their location they weren't sure which exit led to the true summit, it took some time until they found it. Highest point quite narrow, maximum of two persons could stand there at the same time. At 10:10 am they stood on the top. Took abseils on descent at steep part. At maybe 5100m between crampon point and BC Tamting took a fall on scree slope, rolled down the slope for some meters before he stopped. By falling he had released some rocks, one hit him at hip. Hip is okay now, but he may have broken of his fingers during fall; he's undergoing treatment in Kathmandu now. At 2:30 pm everyone was back at BC. Rasmussen had strong headache after the climb and used oxygen during the night. Dolma Khang is also known as Tseringma and it has been climbed by Australian expedition in 1980 trying the SE Ridge of Gaurishankar (GAUR-801-01). Oxygen: Taken and used by Rasmussen intermittently from maybe 5800m to summit and on descent. At BC during night after summit. Fixed rope: Several hundred meters on snow slope, steep rock part and on ridge before summit Sherpas: Dawa Tashi Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 18/04/1987 Tamting Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 20/12/1974 Thundu Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 18/02/1985
Accidents Tamting Sherpa fell on scree slope and rolled down a few meters, was hit by a rock at hip and may have broken a finger in fall.
Achievement -
Agency Ascent Himalayas
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463680
Year 2017
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face-w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tore Sunde-Rasmussen M 1949 Norway Leader Stavanger, Norway Alpinist & adventurer Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tashi Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Tamting Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Thundu Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DOLM17301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Peak 5,840m, South Face and West Ridge - 93:318 (2019) -
DOLM17301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215076 - - -