Dhaulagiri VI | 1970 S Ridge from W
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri VI in 1970 via S Ridge from W, led by Tetsuya Nomura. Summit reached on 17th April 1970. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2723 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA670101 |
| Peak ID | DHA6 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge from W |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Tetsuya Nomura |
| Sponsor | Kansai Mountaineering Club |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Muni->Kaphe Glacier (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1970-04-01 |
| Summit Date | 1970-04-17 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 16 |
| Total Days | 19 |
| Termination Date | 1970-04-20 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7268 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-701-01) |
| Campsites | BC(01/04,4100m),C1(03/04,4700m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(07/04,5750m),C4(09/04,5650m),C5(13/04,6350m),C6(16/04,7000m),Smt(17/04) |
| Route Notes | Nomura - 29 April 70 5 meters below Dhaulagiri VI traversed 17th April officially actually reached summit. Base camp 1 April, C6 16 April just below summit Dhaulagiri VI. 17th continued north beyond Dhaulagiri VI summit along very sharp ridge. Unable find space even one tent on ridge and unable make next camp and turned back on 17th to C6 (this party S Nakamura and Kimura, with Yamamura and Kawazu in support). Returned to base 19th April and left base 20th. Decided this approach to Dhaulagiri IV probably not possible, as also Austrians route apparently not possible; perhaps north possible. Could see Austrians route with binoculars from furthest point reached, but could see no tents or other evidence: message to Austrians: could see nothing from distance about 700m from Austrians highest camp. All members leave Sat on Thai. Wants try Dhaulagiri IV from north, but not permitted to try from north; hopes after 2-3 years may be permitted. All members well; no accidents, no illness. Nomura yesterday to KTM Today Norkamura Iwasa Yamamura Kawazu Kimura All others probably later today Nomura - 15 March 70 Dhaulagiri IV base camp in khola which is uppper Ghustang Khola C4 at point 23,846 ft. C5 between 23,846 ft and 23,320 ft. C6 about 7000m between 23,320 ft and Dhaulagiri IV summit. Japanese route may join Austrian route about where "O" is of point 23,320 ft on Harka Gurung's map. Nomura - 7 March 70 6 members arrive today, 2 already here. Different route from Austrians SW Face via Kaphe Khola Leave KTM charter plane about 15 March; leave 16 reach base camp after 14 days at 4100m. If possible 6-7 camps with highest at 7000m summit lst week April with 2-3 attacks on summit. Last autumn recon (not by Nomura). Long distance and height altitude from C5 to summit, maybe 6 km long 2 Sherpas only; 35 porters to base; very light expedition "we have confidence." Look for Austrians as their climbers request. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446624 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge from w |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tetsuya Nomura | M | 1927 | Japan | Leader | Fujidera, Osaka, Japan | Lecturer in sociology | Details Other expeditions |
| Takaaki Yamane | M | 1936 | Japan | Climber | Hanno, Saitama, Japan | Engineer Sanyo Special Steel Co | Details Other expeditions |
| Hisazumi Nakamura | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Sales manager, Yamanomise Sports Coods | Details Other expeditions |
| Mamoru Mizutani | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Electric technician, Keihan Railway Co | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichi Kimura | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Sales staff, Tsusho Building Material Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Motoharu Iwasa | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Chemical inspection staff, Osaka Senkojo Co | Details Other expeditions |
| Seijiro Yamamura | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shiro Kawazu | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Student of chemistry, Osaka Institute of Technology | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinsing Ongyal (Rinji Wangel) Sherpa | M | 1938 | Nepal | Sirdar | Phaplu, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA670101 | HJ | Nomura, Tetsuya | The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri VI, 1970 | - | 30:141-146 (1970) | - |
| DHA670101 | AAJ | Nomura, Tetsuya | - | - | 45:437-438 (1971) | - |
| DHA670101 | JAC | Nomura, Tetsuya | The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri VI, 1970 | - | 66:27-29 (1971) | - |
| DHA670101 | - | Kansai Mountaineering Club | Dhaulagiri VI | Kansai Mountaineering Club, Osaka | - | jK142 |
| DHA670101 | JAC | Nomura, Tetsuya | The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri VI, 1970 | - | 66:122-132 (1971) | - |
| DHA670101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143704/Edward-H-Hilliard-Jr-1922-1970 | - | - | - |
| DHA670101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/9/the-first-ascent-of-dhaulagiri-vi-1970/ | - | - | - |