Dhaulagiri VI | 1970 S Ridge from W

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri VI in 1970 via S Ridge from W, led by Tetsuya Nomura. Summit reached on 17th April 1970. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2723
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA670101
Peak ID DHA6
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from W
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tetsuya Nomura
Sponsor Kansai Mountaineering Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Muni->Kaphe Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1970-04-01
Summit Date 1970-04-17
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 16
Total Days 19
Termination Date 1970-04-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7268
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-701-01)
Campsites BC(01/04,4100m),C1(03/04,4700m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(07/04,5750m),C4(09/04,5650m),C5(13/04,6350m),C6(16/04,7000m),Smt(17/04)
Route Notes Nomura - 29 April 70 5 meters below Dhaulagiri VI traversed 17th April officially actually reached summit. Base camp 1 April, C6 16 April just below summit Dhaulagiri VI. 17th continued north beyond Dhaulagiri VI summit along very sharp ridge. Unable find space even one tent on ridge and unable make next camp and turned back on 17th to C6 (this party S Nakamura and Kimura, with Yamamura and Kawazu in support). Returned to base 19th April and left base 20th. Decided this approach to Dhaulagiri IV probably not possible, as also Austrians route apparently not possible; perhaps north possible. Could see Austrians route with binoculars from furthest point reached, but could see no tents or other evidence: message to Austrians: could see nothing from distance about 700m from Austrians highest camp. All members leave Sat on Thai. Wants try Dhaulagiri IV from north, but not permitted to try from north; hopes after 2-3 years may be permitted. All members well; no accidents, no illness. Nomura yesterday to KTM Today Norkamura Iwasa Yamamura Kawazu Kimura All others probably later today Nomura - 15 March 70 Dhaulagiri IV base camp in khola which is uppper Ghustang Khola C4 at point 23,846 ft. C5 between 23,846 ft and 23,320 ft. C6 about 7000m between 23,320 ft and Dhaulagiri IV summit. Japanese route may join Austrian route about where "O" is of point 23,320 ft on Harka Gurung's map. Nomura - 7 March 70 6 members arrive today, 2 already here. Different route from Austrians SW Face via Kaphe Khola Leave KTM charter plane about 15 March; leave 16 reach base camp after 14 days at 4100m. If possible 6-7 camps with highest at 7000m summit lst week April with 2-3 attacks on summit. Last autumn recon (not by Nomura). Long distance and height altitude from C5 to summit, maybe 6 km long 2 Sherpas only; 35 porters to base; very light expedition "we have confidence." Look for Austrians as their climbers request.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446624
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge from w

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tetsuya Nomura M 1927 Japan Leader Fujidera, Osaka, Japan Lecturer in sociology Details Other expeditions
Takaaki Yamane M 1936 Japan Climber Hanno, Saitama, Japan Engineer Sanyo Special Steel Co Details Other expeditions
Hisazumi Nakamura M 1944 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Sales manager, Yamanomise Sports Coods Details Other expeditions
Mamoru Mizutani M 1943 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Electric technician, Keihan Railway Co Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Kimura M 1947 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Sales staff, Tsusho Building Material Co. Details Other expeditions
Motoharu Iwasa M 1948 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Chemical inspection staff, Osaka Senkojo Co Details Other expeditions
Seijiro Yamamura M 1947 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shiro Kawazu M 1943 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Student of chemistry, Osaka Institute of Technology Details Other expeditions
Rinsing Ongyal (Rinji Wangel) Sherpa M 1938 Nepal Sirdar Phaplu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA670101 HJ Nomura, Tetsuya The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri VI, 1970 - 30:141-146 (1970) -
DHA670101 AAJ Nomura, Tetsuya - - 45:437-438 (1971) -
DHA670101 JAC Nomura, Tetsuya The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri VI, 1970 - 66:27-29 (1971) -
DHA670101 - Kansai Mountaineering Club Dhaulagiri VI Kansai Mountaineering Club, Osaka - jK142
DHA670101 JAC Nomura, Tetsuya The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri VI, 1970 - 66:122-132 (1971) -
DHA670101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143704/Edward-H-Hilliard-Jr-1922-1970 - - -
DHA670101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/9/the-first-ascent-of-dhaulagiri-vi-1970/ - - -