Dhaulagiri V | 1979 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri V in 1979 via SE Ridge, led by Michiko Takahashi. Summit reached on 9th October 1979. 26 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2111
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA579301
Peak ID DHA5
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 SE Ridge up; NE Ridge down (to D-III-II)
Route 3 (From D-III-II) NE Ridge up; SE Ridge down
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Michiko Takahashi
Sponsor Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition 1979
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 True
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd,4th,6th
Ascent 2 5th
Ascent 3 7th
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-08-23
Summit Date 1979-10-09
Summit Time 1737
Summit Days 47
Total Days 64
Termination Date 1979-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7618
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 11
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 23
Summit Hired 6
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Dhaulagiri II (DHA2-793-01), Dhaulagiri III (DHA3-793-01), Tsaurabong Peak (TSUR-793-01); attempted Snow Peak (SNOW-793-01)
Campsites TempBC(23/08,3700m),Dep(26/08,4300m),BC(02/09,4900m),C1(07/09,5400m),C2(14/09,5900m),C3(26/09,6400m),C4(05/10,7150m),Smt(09,12-14/10),Smt.C5(13/10),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes Japanese Expedition Chronicle (Dhaulagiri 5th side) Sept 03 - Nukita, Fukushima and one guide (Sherpa) reached the site for C1 at 5400m, the end of the ridge from White Peak, part of the SE Ridge of Dhaulagiri V. Sept 07 - Nukita, Shikishima and Fukushima established C1 at 5400m high. Sept 08 - Nukita, Shikishima and Fukushima reached the site for C2. The site was very steep and impossible to pitch tents. The site had to be dug and settled. At this time, there was no snow on this route below C2. Sept 14 - C2 was established by Nukita, Kobayashi and two guides. Sept 15 - The route to White Peak was completed by Nukita and Kobayashi. White Peak is not really a peak; it is part of the SE Ridge and no altitude difference with C3. The reason why White Peak can be seen as a peak from downside is a kind of illusion. From the place called White Peak to C3 is a narrow ridge and same level. Sept 17 - The route was continued to the site of C3 for Okayama Univ Exp's, 1975, at 6400m, by Okura and Shikishima. Late this night, snow started falling. Sept 18 - Due to heavy snow falling, Okura and Shikishima could not climb up more than 3 pitches from C2, then they climbed down to C1. Nukita and Kobayashi returned to C2 from C1. Sept 19 - It continued snowing all day. Since Nukita and Kobayashi felt the hazard of snow avalanche, they quit route-making and returned to C2. At 10:30, the snow avalanche occured and hit C2. Fortunately, the members were safe; however all tents, except the one members stayed in, climbing gears, and food boxes were swept away and those materials were impossible to find out. Sept 22 - Snowing finally stopped. Members and guides started their movement again. However, the fixed ropes were completely buried under heavy snow; they had to be dug up. Sept 23 - This day also, Okura and Fukushima dug up the ropes and continued one pitch and a half from the last one. Sept 24 - Okura and Fukushima continued the route 6 pitches from the last rope. At this time, our C3 was planned to establish the site higher than Okayama Univ Exp's C3. Sept 26 - At 17:00, the snow avalanche hit C2 again. The next avalanche occured at 18:00 and hit the same camp. These two times of avalanche swept away some climbing gears, kitchen gears, and food boxes. Sept 28 - C3 was decided to be established at 6400m, the same location as Okayama Univ's, by Nukita and Okura. Oct 02 - Ogura, Fukushima, Kobayashi and Shikishima reached the site for C4, at 7150m. Late night, snow started to fall. Oct 03 - The fixed ropes were buried by the snow last night and were forced to dig up. Oct 05 - C4 was established by Okura and Nukita at 7150m. Oct 09 - Ogura and Okura made the summit of Dhaulagiri V, 7618m, at 17:37, fixing the ropes to the summit. Oct 12 - Nukita, Kobayashi and 3 guides made the summit at 12:50 carrying loads. Oct 13 - Fukushima and Shikishima made the summit at 13:50. Those guides who made the summit the last day went to the summit again to carry loads. Ogura and Okura went to the summit again at 16:00 and established C5 there. They used oxygen during their sleeping time. Oct 14 - Ogura and Okura started traversing towards Dhaulagiri II at 10:30. This party reached the Advance Camp located at the saddle between D-V and D-III at 17:00. The altitude of this camp is 7200m. 3 guides made the summit on D-V at 11:40. Oct 15 - The traverse party left the Advance Camp at 07:00. They directly climbed the slope of Dhaulagiri III from the camp. The summit of D-III was made at 17:00. Due to the lack of oxygen and the strong wind, Ogura got frostbite on his toes. They reached Advance Camp located between D-III and D-II at 20:20. The altitude of the camp is 7550m. Oct 16 - Because Ogura got altitude sickness, he could not move out from the camp. From C4 of D-II, Maki, Wakabayashi and one guide climbed to the Advance Camp to rescue him. Supported by the rescue party, the traverse party reached C4 at 21:00. The two parties made the summit of Dhaulagiri II at 17:30.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID DHA279301
Checksum 2450095
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

26 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shigetsugu Araki M 1954 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Assistant teacher in a Tokyo High School Details Other expeditions
Takayoshi Chiba M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Hideaki Chiku M 1948 Japan Film Team Tokyo, Japan Movie cameraman Details Other expeditions
Shinji Fukushima M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan University student of Japanese literature Details Other expeditions
Kentaro Hirokawa M 1960 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan University student Details Other expeditions
Ken Kobayashi M 1959 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student at a college teaching how to make alcoholic beverages Details Other expeditions
Yukio Koga M 1949 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Construction analyst Details Other expeditions
Kozo Komatsu M 1954 Japan Dep Ldr/Climb Ldr Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Ryoichi Kozakai M 1950 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Restaurant manager Details Other expeditions
Takao Maki M 1949 Japan Climber Kasukabe, Saitama, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Koji Nezu M 1954 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Sales clerk in sporting-goods shop Details Other expeditions
Muneo Nukita M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Shigeto Ogura M 1954 Japan Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Yoshitomi Okura M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Sales clerk in sporting-goods shop Details Other expeditions
Etsuro Shikishima M 1951 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Freelance writer Details Other expeditions
Moriyuki Tabuchi M 1947 Japan Film Team Matsudo, Chiba, Japan Movie director Details Other expeditions
Michiko Takahashi F 1942 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Physician (urologist) Details Other expeditions
Mitsuo Takahashi M 1948 Japan Film Team Tokyo, Japan Film team audio mixer Details Other expeditions
Komei Wada M 1949 Japan Climber Yamato, Kanagawa, Japan Restaurant manager Details Other expeditions
Jun Wakabayashi M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan University student (photography) Details Other expeditions
Nima Kancha Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Rita Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kami Nurbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.