Dhaulagiri V | 1975 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri V in 1975 via S Ridge, led by Eiichi Umeki. Summit reached on 1st May 1975. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2302
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA575101
Peak ID DHA5
Year 1975
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Eiichi Umeki
Sponsor Okayama University Nepal Himalaya Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1975-03-01
Summit Date 1975-05-01
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 61
Total Days 71
Termination Date 1975-05-11
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7618
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Tsaurabong Peak via E Ridge (TSUR-751-01)
Campsites TempBC(01/03),BC(13/03,4800m),C1(22/03,5300m),C2(03/04,5900m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(26/04,7000m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes Umeki - 13 May 25 Umeki and Karo left 5th May and arrive KTM 10th May; others arrive 24th or 25th with equipment. No accidents, no frostbite, no Sherpa trouble; many members climbed White Peak 6300m from there very long, narrow difficult ridge and at high altitude; most difficult part 1st to reach top White Peak (Yamasaki). On 17th April, 3 days before C3 established C4 at 7000m higher placed so no need for C5. Summit 1st May noon by Moiroka and Pemba Tsering with 3 men up to 7480m in support making route for descent and film from C4. 1st May 3 men left - Ishihara, Ogura, Kuroda No other summit attempts. Wait in Kathmandu for main party. MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 75 Summit 1 May 12:00 hrs. Masaki and Pemba Tsering Nepal and Japanese flags Another attempt not known. MP Khanal, MFA - 9 April 75 3 members and 2 Sherpas established C2 at 5900m on 3 April (no names given). Umeki - 10 Feb 75 Leave KTM 12 Feb Leave Pokhara 15th Feb 14 days caravan. South Ridge route. 15 Sherpas including sirdar. Summit about 30th April-1 May. 1 press member who stays BC. Kawaguchi, et al - 27 Jan 75 3 on 14th Jan - other 18 4th Feb Climbers leave Kathmandu 12 Feb (8th Feb, 4 medical group leave) Total 21 - 4 medical - 2 geographical - 13 climbers - 1 doctor - 1 general leader By road to Pokhara and leave there 15 or 16 Feb via Myagdi Khola to BC southeast of Dhaulagiri V on Tsaurabang Glacier. Route is South Ridge 1st attempts on D-V in 1971, both by South Ridge, both Japanese and unsuccessful. This expedition's recce party last year spring climbed White Peak (6300m) to 5000m. This expedition will climb White Peak and thence north on ridge, really South Ridge route; earlier expeditions tried via much steeper slopes north of White Peak onto South Ridge. 4-week caravan; reach BC mid-March; BC 4200m; 5 high camps with C5 at 7200m Summit beginning of May 15 Sherpas for climbing including Sirdar. Medical team go to BC area and then southern Nepal; geologist to stay in BC.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448469
Year 1975
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takabatake Akira M 1911 Japan General Leader Okayama, Japan Mineralogy, Okayama University Details Other expeditions
Eiichi Umeki M 1938 Japan Leader Okayama, Japan Assistant professor of French, Okayama University Details Other expeditions
Shiro Sadakane M 1939 Japan Deputy Leader Asakuchi, Okayama, Japan Teacher in Konko Junior High School Details Other expeditions
Ken Ishihara M 1941 Japan Climber Kasako-shi, Japan Teacher in Konko High School Details Other expeditions
Genzaburo Yamasaki M 1943 Japan Climber Okayama, Japan Staff member, chain of furniture stores Details Other expeditions
Hideo Ogura M 1946 Japan Climber Okayama, Japan Pediatrician in Okayama University Details Other expeditions
Masaru Kono M 1944 Japan Climber Setta, Osaka, Japan Air-conditioning and referigeration engineer Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Aoki M 1947 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Staff member, business machines company Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Hiratsuka M 1948 Japan Climber Nishiku, Osaka, Japan Staff member, rubber goods (tires, etc) manufacturing co. Details Other expeditions
Masaaki Morioka M 1949 Japan Climber Okayama, Japan Urologist in Okayama University Details Other expeditions
Kenji Kawaguchi M 1949 Japan Climber Okayama, Japan Anesthesist in Okayama University Medical School Details Other expeditions
Norikazu Ichikawa M 1950 Japan Climber Suzaki, Kochi, Japan Student in Okayama University Medical school Details Other expeditions
Haruhisa Kuroda M 1952 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Student at Okayama University Scientific school Details Other expeditions
Hiromichi Mizahata M 1953 Japan Climber Inba, Chiba, Japan Student at Okayama University Technological school Details Other expeditions
Yashuhiro Yumoto M 1937 Japan Medical Officer Okayama, Japan Teaching assistant, internal medicine department, Okayama Univ Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Samden Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA575101 AAJ Kawaguchi, Kenji - - 50:522 (1976) -
DHA575101 JAC Takeda, Shosaku The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri V - 70:10-12 (1975) -
DHA575101 MM - - - 46:13 (Nov 1975) -
DHA575101 JAC Takeda, Shosaku The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri V - 70:110-125 (1975) -
DHA575101 IWA - - - 48:147 (1976) -
DHA575101 IWA - - - 48:61 (1976) -
DHA575101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197652201/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-V - - -