Dhaulagiri V | 1975 S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri V in 1975 via S Ridge, led by Eiichi Umeki. Summit reached on 1st May 1975. 17 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2302 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA575101 |
| Peak ID | DHA5 |
| Year | 1975 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Eiichi Umeki |
| Sponsor | Okayama University Nepal Himalaya Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Myagdi Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1975-03-01 |
| Summit Date | 1975-05-01 |
| Summit Time | 1200 |
| Summit Days | 61 |
| Total Days | 71 |
| Termination Date | 1975-05-11 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7618 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 15 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Tsaurabong Peak via E Ridge (TSUR-751-01) |
| Campsites | TempBC(01/03),BC(13/03,4800m),C1(22/03,5300m),C2(03/04,5900m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(26/04,7000m),Smt(01/05) |
| Route Notes | Umeki - 13 May 25 Umeki and Karo left 5th May and arrive KTM 10th May; others arrive 24th or 25th with equipment. No accidents, no frostbite, no Sherpa trouble; many members climbed White Peak 6300m from there very long, narrow difficult ridge and at high altitude; most difficult part 1st to reach top White Peak (Yamasaki). On 17th April, 3 days before C3 established C4 at 7000m higher placed so no need for C5. Summit 1st May noon by Moiroka and Pemba Tsering with 3 men up to 7480m in support making route for descent and film from C4. 1st May 3 men left - Ishihara, Ogura, Kuroda No other summit attempts. Wait in Kathmandu for main party. MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 75 Summit 1 May 12:00 hrs. Masaki and Pemba Tsering Nepal and Japanese flags Another attempt not known. MP Khanal, MFA - 9 April 75 3 members and 2 Sherpas established C2 at 5900m on 3 April (no names given). Umeki - 10 Feb 75 Leave KTM 12 Feb Leave Pokhara 15th Feb 14 days caravan. South Ridge route. 15 Sherpas including sirdar. Summit about 30th April-1 May. 1 press member who stays BC. Kawaguchi, et al - 27 Jan 75 3 on 14th Jan - other 18 4th Feb Climbers leave Kathmandu 12 Feb (8th Feb, 4 medical group leave) Total 21 - 4 medical - 2 geographical - 13 climbers - 1 doctor - 1 general leader By road to Pokhara and leave there 15 or 16 Feb via Myagdi Khola to BC southeast of Dhaulagiri V on Tsaurabang Glacier. Route is South Ridge 1st attempts on D-V in 1971, both by South Ridge, both Japanese and unsuccessful. This expedition's recce party last year spring climbed White Peak (6300m) to 5000m. This expedition will climb White Peak and thence north on ridge, really South Ridge route; earlier expeditions tried via much steeper slopes north of White Peak onto South Ridge. 4-week caravan; reach BC mid-March; BC 4200m; 5 high camps with C5 at 7200m Summit beginning of May 15 Sherpas for climbing including Sirdar. Medical team go to BC area and then southern Nepal; geologist to stay in BC. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448469 |
| Year | 1975 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
17 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Takabatake Akira | M | 1911 | Japan | General Leader | Okayama, Japan | Mineralogy, Okayama University | Details Other expeditions |
| Eiichi Umeki | M | 1938 | Japan | Leader | Okayama, Japan | Assistant professor of French, Okayama University | Details Other expeditions |
| Shiro Sadakane | M | 1939 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Asakuchi, Okayama, Japan | Teacher in Konko Junior High School | Details Other expeditions |
| Ken Ishihara | M | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Kasako-shi, Japan | Teacher in Konko High School | Details Other expeditions |
| Genzaburo Yamasaki | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Okayama, Japan | Staff member, chain of furniture stores | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Ogura | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Okayama, Japan | Pediatrician in Okayama University | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaru Kono | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Setta, Osaka, Japan | Air-conditioning and referigeration engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeo Aoki | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Staff member, business machines company | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Hiratsuka | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Nishiku, Osaka, Japan | Staff member, rubber goods (tires, etc) manufacturing co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaaki Morioka | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Okayama, Japan | Urologist in Okayama University | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenji Kawaguchi | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Okayama, Japan | Anesthesist in Okayama University Medical School | Details Other expeditions |
| Norikazu Ichikawa | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Suzaki, Kochi, Japan | Student in Okayama University Medical school | Details Other expeditions |
| Haruhisa Kuroda | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Student at Okayama University Scientific school | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiromichi Mizahata | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Inba, Chiba, Japan | Student at Okayama University Technological school | Details Other expeditions |
| Yashuhiro Yumoto | M | 1937 | Japan | Medical Officer | Okayama, Japan | Teaching assistant, internal medicine department, Okayama Univ | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Tshering Sherpa | M | 1943 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Samden Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA575101 | AAJ | Kawaguchi, Kenji | - | - | 50:522 (1976) | - |
| DHA575101 | JAC | Takeda, Shosaku | The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri V | - | 70:10-12 (1975) | - |
| DHA575101 | MM | - | - | - | 46:13 (Nov 1975) | - |
| DHA575101 | JAC | Takeda, Shosaku | The First Ascent of Dhaulagiri V | - | 70:110-125 (1975) | - |
| DHA575101 | IWA | - | - | - | 48:147 (1976) | - |
| DHA575101 | IWA | - | - | - | 48:61 (1976) | - |
| DHA575101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197652201/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-V | - | - | - |