Dhaulagiri IV | 1973 E Ridge from N

A Austria expedition to Dhaulagiri IV in 1973 via E Ridge from N, led by Franz Huber. Summit reached on 7th May 1973. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2344
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA473101
Peak ID DHA4
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Franz Huber
Sponsor Austrian Dhaulagiri IV Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Jangla La->Mukut
Basecamp Date 1973-04-04
Summit Date 1973-05-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7250m due to big storm and continuing bad weather
High Point (m) 7250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4000m),C1(11/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5300m),C3(19/04,6000m),C4(22/04,6800m),C5(07/05,7250m),xxx
Route Notes Franz Huber - 6 March 73 7 arrive; all excluding Weissensteiner. Some more difficult this route than 1969 probably. North route also long; what part of north route most difficult to say since haven't seen it: Dhaulagiri III in the way. Leave KTM after few days. Weissensteiner - 28 Feb 73 Leader and Dr. to KTM on Tuesday next week and with reporter to Pokhara about 8th. Adi to NDH tomorrow and by truck to Pokhara with cargo about 7 or 8 March; 6 members by truck also. Leave Pokhara about 10 March. Reach base camp in at least 21 days, probably 28 days. 5 high camps with C5 at about 7200 or 7300m. Much rock up to C1; snow fields to C2 and from there serious traverse below icefall; then ice to east ridge at about 7200-7300m where C5 will be. Ridge half rock, half ice. Adi Weissensteiner - 2 June 73 C5 in Col; ridge beyond not easy: partly steep, partly at last knife-like, partly distance. Waited 2 days in C5 for good weather but didn't come. This possible to climb this 2nd route, but it takes time and if we would come again, we would come this same way. Would more try from so but it has to be a damn strong team. Thinking of requesting D-IV again. No accidents, illness, frostbite, yeti. Thought about 3rd attempt, but who was strong enough after 5 weeks at high-altitude. Only 2 or 3 possibles and distance too much from C2 to C5 to summit with difficult climbing at end and never stopped. Adi Weissensteiner arrived yesterday, rest today.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447743
Year 1973
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from n

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Erwin Weilguny M - Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Medical student Details Other expeditions
Hans Mikosch M - Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Student Details Other expeditions
Egon Obojes M 1943 Austria Climber Kufstein, Tirol, Austria Employed by Austrian Railroad Co. Details Other expeditions
Franz Huber M 1935 Austria Leader Landl, Styria, Austria Employed by Austrian Railroad Co. Details Other expeditions
Adolf Richard (Adi) Weissensteiner M 1938 Austria Deputy Leader Admont, Styria, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Adolf (Adi) Huber M 1939 Austria Climber Palfau, Styria, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Rupar M - Austria Exp Doctor Admont, Styria, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Erich Hammerl M - Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Electro-mechanic Details Other expeditions
Werner Kopacka M 1950 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Journalist (reporting expedition for Graz Neue Zeit) Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA473101 AAJ Huber, Adolf - - 48:205-206 (1974) -
DHA473101 MM - - - 29:13 (Sep 1973) -
DHA473101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420502/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-IV-Attempt - - -