Dhaulagiri IV | 1972 Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri IV in 1972 via Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW, led by Akinobu Otsu. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2718
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA472301
Peak ID DHA4
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Akinobu Otsu
Sponsor Japan Rock Climbing Society Expedition to Dhaulagiri IV
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1972-09-02
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7149m due to difficult ridge beyond Gama Peak
High Point (m) 7149
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-723-01) and Gama Peak (GAMA-723-01)
Campsites BC(02/09,4100m),C1(06/09,4800m),C2(11/09,5300m),C3(20/09,5700m),C4(29/09,6300m),C5(03/10,6400m),C6(13/10,6900m),xxx(14/10,7149m)
Route Notes Dhaulagiri IV not summitted, but 3 scaled Dhaulagiri VI Otsu - 3 March 80 Correct that 3 members his 1972 autumn expedition went to summit of Dhaulagiri VI. BC was on Kaphe Glacier, southwest of Dhaulagiri VI. Otsu - 5 Nov 72 All arrive by bus today. Farthest point reached: 200m north of C6 on very narrow steep ridge. Fujita, Yashuma and Sato established C6 on 13 Oct and 200m north on 14 Oct. Could have made summit this route, but needed 15 days more and only 5 days his light food left and on 15 Oct, decided stop climbing. No clue of Austrian expedition which approached from eastern side of North-South Ridge. Akimoto, Yashuma and Shindo heard like yeti voice from C2 in middle Sept at 9 pm to 10 pm; like human voice calling, but no footprints found next am. This route possible if more supplies of food and equipments more Sherpas and more strong members; very steep route, but not dangerous. No accident, illness, trouble. Shrestha, MFA - 24 Oct 72 Based 6th camp 6900m and reached 7200m, but on 15th abandoned climbing because 1 more days of climbing still to go. Otsu - 18 Aug 72 Akinobu Otsu, Toshihiko Mizuno, Tomoyashu Akimoto leave today 11:20. Noriyuki Ueda arrives KTM mid-Oct; not climber, maybe to base. Start caravan 19 Aug, 12 days to base. Otsu - 16 Aug 72 Sato to Pokhara on 14 Aug Igarashi & Fujita on 15 Aug Saito & Shindo 16 Aug Yashuma 17 Aug others perhaps 18 Aug Otsu - 8 Aug 72 Total members 10: 7 arrive today and 1 later (mgr arrives Oct, not climber) 2 routes - Glacier 1) Kaphe Khola (Gustez Khola) - southwest 2) Konoban Glacier - southeast Kaphe Glacier long but very easy, I think; try Kaphe Khola first; 6 high camps: base at 4100m with C6 at 7200m; route onto Dhaulagiri VI - Junction peak ridge to Junction to D-IV. To Pokhara 11 August: 120 porters. 6-7 Sherpas (Walsung Dorje sirdar). Bbegin caravan 21 Aug and 13 days to base camp to begin climb immediately; summit attempt 10-20 Oct. Selected D-IV because many Japanese parties have failed. This 5th attempt learned from earlier failures: technical difficulties are great, so all members are as good as British in technique for Alps and they use practical Japanese techniques of Bonington there for D-IV. Are members of Everest 1973 Otsu hopes. Expedition also search for Yeti; he wishes there is Yeti; will be walking around Kaphe-Konoban area looking for Yeti. None of the expedition climbed in Nepal before (leader arrives in Nepal) sightseeing. Shindo - 5 Aug 72 Pokhara -> Beni Gurja -> Kharin -> Ghustung Khola -> north of D-VI -> Junction Peak -> D-IV. Very long route: BC to summit 20 km. 7 high camps. 9 members and 7 Sherpas. 1) Mr. Otsu, Leader 2) Mr. Fujita, deputy leader 3) Mr. Akimoto 4) Mr. Igarashi 5) Mr. Mizuno (doctor) 6) Mr. Yashuma 7) Mr. Sato 8) Mr. Saito 9) Mr. Shindo
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 5932
Year 1972
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) junction pk-w ridge from sw

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Akinobu Otsu M 1942 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan City planning officer, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Fujita M 1945 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Toshihiko Mizuno M 1943 Japan Exp Doctor Toki, Gifu, Japan Surgeon (Nippon University Hospital) Details Other expeditions
Tomoyashu Akimoto M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan City planning architect for Kawasaki city, Kanagawa Details Other expeditions
Yoichiro Yashuma M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Writer (free lancer in sports) Details Other expeditions
Tetsuhito Sato M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Igarashi M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Company employee (export-import, electrical goods) Details Other expeditions
Iwao Saito M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Cook (restaurant manager and sometimes cook) Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Shindo M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Company employee (export-import, electrical goods) Details Other expeditions
Noriyuki Ueda M 1942 Japan BC Manager Tokyo, Japan Company employee Details Other expeditions
Walung Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA472301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 47:486 (1973) -
DHA472301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-IV - - -