Dhaulagiri IV | 1970 Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW-Smt Dha VI
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri IV in 1970 via Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW-Smt Dha VI, led by Michihiko Ogata. Summit reached on 1st November 1970. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2471 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA470301 |
| Peak ID | DHA4 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW-Smt Dha VI |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Michihiko Ogata |
| Sponsor | Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Committee - Dhaulagiri IV |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 1970-11-01 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned due to difficult knife-edged ridge |
| High Point (m) | 6900 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-703-01) and Gama Peak (GAMA-703-01); attempted Junction Peak (JUNC-703-01) |
| Campsites | BC(4100m),C1(4650m),C2(5000m),C3(5750m),C4(6060m),C5(6350m),C6(6900m),xxx(6900m) |
| Route Notes | Ogata, Fukuoka - 20 Nov 70 Came to KTM alone today; seats very difficult so others may come by car. Ogata will stay until Nov end. "We were deceived by the map and then by the real mountain." Our route too long to reach Dhaulagiri IV. Tried to reach from southwest and made C6 at 6900m near Junction Peak of 23,320 ft; first followed same route as Gurja Himal and then north of Dhaulagiri VI to reach Junction Peak (7108m). C4 due west of Dhaulagiri VI and then west and up face north of Dhaulagiri IV and found prominent peak north of Dhaulagiri VI. On 25 Oct this north peak reached by Nakashima and Nabeyama and they reported seemed easy to reach Dhaulagiri IV peak. They climbed what they called Gama Peak (Ogata's nickname at medical school); this peak probably the 7100m peak. Found very difficult to reach Junction Peak because very narrow ridge of very strong winds and seemed almost impossible to carry loads there; tried until 3 Nov to fix ropes and make route. Meanwhile 2 Sherpas and Koga and Nakashima climbed Dhaulagiri VI on 1 Nov from C6 to have better view of Dhaulagiri IV finally gave up because afraid supplies too low; no one could see any signs of Austrians. Their last camps site flat and wide enough for tents, but many crevasses and very rough; could be seen from base and Dhaulagiri VI. Said Austrians must have been very good climbers because face they climbed to last camps very steep and icy. BC 4100m C1 4650m C2 5000m C3 5750m C4 6060m C5 6350m C6 6900m "Possibility from our C5 there might be direct route to reach rock [Junction] peak but is very steep blue ice so would take many days making route." Took us 30 days to make route and establish C5; need more fine days so pre-monsoon better but might be difficult to get porters across pass to BC site. Also might be possibility from north but didn't see much of this side. No accidents and no serious illness. Fukuoka Same route as Kansai University expedition up to C3: southwest route western ridge. Total 8 camps because ridge very long. Base at Kaphe Khola 8 Sherpas says Motherland. Dhaulagiri IV Base camp to be near Gurjakhani Route from Ghustang Khola and west |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446822 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | junction pk-w ridge from sw-smt dha vi |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michihiko Ogata | M | - | Japan | Leader | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Professor of physiology at Kyushu University | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuyoshi Takayama | M | - | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-ken, Japan | Staff member, Takayama Tea Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Atushi Ineanaga | M | 1932 | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Staff member, Medical Association of Fukuoka | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuyuki Kimoto | M | - | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Staff member, Mitaka Sporting Goods Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuhiro Nakashima | M | - | Japan | Climber | Saga-ku, Japan | Staff member, Government Industrial Research Institute, Kyushu | Details Other expeditions |
| Goro Nabeyama | M | - | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Staff member, Izumi Co. Ltd | Details Other expeditions |
| Makoto Koga | M | - | Japan | Climber | Omuta, Fukuoka, Japan | Commerce student, Seinan University | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsusuke Hisanaga | M | - | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-ken, Japan | Staff member, Nippon Tetrapod Co. Ltd | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Ikeno | M | - | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Journalist of Nisai Nippon Press | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA470301 | AAJ | Yoshizawa, Ichiro | - | - | 45:439 (1971) | - |
| DHA470301 | MM | - | - | - | 15:7 (May 1971) | - |
| DHA470301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143901/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-VI-Second-Ascent | - | - | - |