Dhaulagiri IV | 1969 W Col-W Ridge from S

A Austria expedition to Dhaulagiri IV in 1969 via W Col-W Ridge from S, led by Richard Hoyer. Summit reached on 10th November 1969. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2496
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA469301
Peak ID DHA4
Year 1969
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Col-W Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Richard Hoyer
Sponsor Austria Himalaya Expedition 1969
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach Pokhara->Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1969-10-01
Summit Date 1969-11-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1969-11-20
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m+ after disappearance of 5 members and 1 Sherpa
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 5
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10),C1(06/10,5100m),C2(12/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6200m),C4,C5(09/11,6900m),xxx(10/11,6900m?)
Route Notes Graf - 29 Nov 69 Nov 12th Graf with Ang Dawa, Phuwa Kitar and Phuwa Tenzing: I would go with point to C3 and other 2 to stay in C1 and wait. As I went on 13th with point above C1 to C2, PT became ill (bronchitis) which he had already and which go worse as he climbed and therefore had to go back to C1 and next day PT and AD went down to base camp and I stayed with PK at C1, but I was not able to go further up because in these 2 days everyday in afternoon heavy snowfall and we were only 2 and could not try this difficult route, so I stayed with PK until 16th. Nov 12 - 4 to C1 13 - Graf and PT try for C2 and return C1 14 - PT and AD to base 15 - Graf and PK in C1 16 - leave C1 to base Idea was to go to C3 only and not beyond; from C3 could see much of route to C4 and C5 and summit and also at C3 was another radio. (3 radios: 1) base 2) C3 3) as far as C5 and stayed there - not taken to summit) Whole day of 14th and 15th waiting looking and hoping but in afternoon bad weather prevented sight. Graf returned to base on 15th because no sign and radio communication not possible from C1 and Graf didn't know what happened in meantime. Graf had gone to C3 (this his farthest) on 21 Oct with Nemac and Reha, carrying loads and return to C2 for night not possible to send up more Sherpas from base cause had no more (except cook who was no climber) Early 17th Kubiena left for Beri for helicopter. Will do search flight with PP (Krammer aboard) whenever weather will permit again - to look for tents at C5: seems to be removed to be used; if 2 tents at C5 are still to be seen, accident happened on way to summit and return. 12-15 - I was healthy but difficulties of route between C1 and C2 reached my limit. I had to make new steps since snowfall and fixed ropes were partly covered with snow; if Sherpa had not gotten sick, could not have reached C2 same day but next day could have done so if Sherpa not sick; but did get sick and now only two men and therefore not safe for two alone to try continue upwards. Kubiena & Kramer - 28 Nov 69 Kubiena thinks all in such good condition, felt all should be allowed to go to summit together on 10th. C5 highest planned and way not difficult from C5; they felt this and Kubiena after helicopter search felt this. C5 established 15:00 hrs on 9th. "We think something happened to them on way to summit; it is possible something happened to wireless but we don't believe it because it worked so well; maybe they reached the summit and it happened on the way down." Avalanche not possible because they were on ridge but cornice break possible. At higher camps had had snow fall almost every evening but on 9th more snow than before and on 10th weather not so clear. Summiters wanted to start on 10th very early. Krammer out at 3 am and saw weather was very clear and bright starlight and Krammer could see C3's site from base. C3 was the highest camp one can see from base; cannot see C4 and C5 and summit. Krammer diary: Weather Nov 10 deteriorating from hr to hr and 3 layers clouds; 22:00 hrs rain at base began and think bivouac in bad weather since no radio. Nov 11 bad weather: clouds and high, snow would reach camp C3 3 days later at least from summit (at C3 was radio). K and K arrive today by Pilatus Porter. Graf and M-J with luggage tomorrow or day after. Graf leaves Pokhara 6:30 in PP but returned 8:15 because could not go even near mountain because wind so strong. If weather could permit might try again tomorrow again tomorrow or Sun. After that (30 Nov) no attempt at flight. Normal weather: clouds at noon, little snow, clear by 8 pm. Nov 10 - clouds by 9:00 am and stayed low all day and evening rain snow began 10 pm. Letter from liaison officer dated 15 Nov ex-basecamp reported last intercom contact from leader 9 Nov 6 pm from C5 where all 6 climbers rested. Pgm for next day was to attempt summit if good weather but if bad weather would contact 7:30 am by walkie-talkie. If weather good and no contact, base camp assume they trying for summit. Next contact should then be at 12:00 and if more then try every hour on hour. We are all in good condition and have food for 1 or 2 days. Base camp crew had no contact on 10th by walkie-talkie or on following days, and since no contact these 5 days we assume they are missing. Missing persons: Hoyer, Nemec, Lavicka, Ring, Reha, Tenzing Nindra 27 Nov 69 Dr. Bukashi (Austrian embassy) received telegram ex-Austrian Gov't saying Austrian Alpine Club will provide $3000 for Mueller-Jungbluth search party on condition there is some indication same missing men still be alive. Mueller-Jungbluth - 24 Nov 69 M-J with expedition to Muri where expedition went north and he went northwest and that's last he saw of them which was 26 Sept. Heard was on radio 21 Nov at Ghari and in 1-1/2 days reached Pokhara at 11 am 23 Nov and at Pokhara met Gen who had letter from Kubiena: Graf, Krammer and Kubiena safe. Helicopter to C3 and let down near from ladder; wants to look down a glacier on north side. Mueller-Jungbluth of Austria Please inform yourself whether it is possible to get helicopter on charter or free for help of missing Austrian climbers Dhaulagiri IV. If the helicopter going to help 3 fresh good men possibly should go to base camp about 15,000 ft for searching. Confirm crew RNAC Pokhara or air drawn office early morning 24 Nov. Jai Singh - 21 Nov 69 Could see sites of C3, C4 and C5 but no tents; clear weather, circled 6 rounds at 18,000 ft and up to 21,000 ft in 2 rounds at levels climbers might be, see no tracks and no people; very strong wind (60 knots), so tracks and bodies could be covered. Base camp party included liaison officer. 4 climbers and 2 Sherpas are missing, Jai thinks 2 in Beni. Base camp party, etc, Beni March - Tuesday Grand search no use; would have to be expert climbers; one base camp man and 2 Sherpas tried 2-3 days ago but couldn't get up onto ridge. Kubiena was in wireless contact with base camp, but now base moving Kubiena feels climbing party lost for good; no further search. HMG - 21 Nov 69 5 members and 1 Sherpa missing from 12 Nov when had climbed to 24,000 ft. Mueller-Jungbluth - 13 Sept 69 Austrian expeditions real climbers are Hoyer, Ring, Nemec, Reha and Levicka 6 Sherpas: sirdar - Ang Dawa cook - Kali Tamang Phuwa Tenzing Tenzing Nindra Phuwa Kita kitchen boy - Norbu Lhakpa Hoyer and Mueller-Jungbluth - 9 Sept 69 Most members arrived KTM Sept 8; 2 (Kramer and Ring) arrive 9th; and last one Kubiena arrive 18 Oct. Leave for Pokhara soon as possible; route via Beri to Myagdi Khola to Choriban Khola to base. Will climb actual Dhaulagiri IV, not peak attempted by JOMR and RAF - this peak never attempted. JOMR (JOM Roberts) Going down onto glacier for C4, up glacier C5 C6 on West Ridge of Dhaulagiri 23,000 ft.
Accidents 5 members, 1 Sherpa dead of unknown causes (disappeared on summit attempt)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446465
Year 1969
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w col-w ridge from s

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard Hoyer M 1943 Austria Leader Vienna, Austria Mechanician Details Other expeditions
Kurt Ring M 1933 Austria Vice Leader St. Polten, Lower Austria, Austria Dentist Details Other expeditions
Leo Graf M 1927 Austria Vice Leader Vienna, Austria Employee of the post-office Details Other expeditions
Klaus Kubiena M 1930 Austria Exp Doctor Vienna, Austria Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Peter Nemec M 1943 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Joiner Details Other expeditions
Kurt Reha M 1948 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Student Details Other expeditions
Peter Lavicka M 1941 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Technical employer Details Other expeditions
Oskar (Ossie) Krammer M 1920 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Technician Details Other expeditions
Wolfang Mueller-Jungbluth M - W Germany Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Geologist Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Nindra Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA469301 AAJ - - - 44:181 (1970) -
DHA469301 AJ - - - 75:196-197 (1970) -
DHA469301 HJ Graf, Leo Dhaulagiri IV, 1969 - Austrian Himalayan Expedition - 31:153-156 (1971) -
DHA469301 HJ Kubiena, Klaus "And Afterwards..." - 31:157-162 (1971) -
DHA469301 MM - - - 8:7 (Mar 1970) -
DHA469301 DAV Krammer, Oskar Dhaulagiri IV, Berg des Schicksals - 95:200-202 (1970) -
DHA469301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197018101/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Tragedy - - -
DHA469301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/15/dhaulagiri-iv-1969/ - - -
DHA469301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/16/and-afterwards/ - - -
DHA469301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1970_files/AJ%201970%20196-202%20Nepal.pdf - - -