Dhaulagiri II | 1986 S Face-E Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Dhaulagiri II in 1986 via S Face-E Ridge, led by Lee Don-Yong. Summit reached on 12th May 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 970
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA286101
Peak ID DHA2
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Lee Don-Yong
Sponsor 1986 Korean Dhaulagiri II Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-10
Summit Date 1986-05-12
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7751
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,3500m),ABC(16/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5400m),C2(21/04,6000m),C3A(27/04,6500m),C3B(01/05,7000m),C4(04/05,7200m),Smt(12/05)
Route Notes BC at 3500m towards start of Myagdi Khola SE of point 5981m and east of ridge ABC at 4800m Tsaurabong Glacier west of ridge C2 at 6000m South Face C3A at 6500m South Face C3B at 7000m at East Ridge C4 near East Ridge. Moved C3 5000m up because 1st site too far from summit. Made C4 at 7200m on 4th May but now avalanche broke tent that night and 2 occupants to C3 and on 5th repaired fixed ropes. On 12th May 3 summiters made push to top from C3 at 4:30 am and reached summit at 3:30-4:00 pm (on 11th May Kim had started for top but not in good condition and returned to C3). When on top on 12th weather bad; wind and snow and hail. 3 men descended. 30 minutes lapse between 1st and 3rd - Kim, in middle, disappeared. E Ridge very steep and north side sheer drop. Ang Dorje say this rock ridge was difficult section with steep ice just above C3. Kim Sung-Gyu disappeared during descent from summit. Sherpas did not see what happened (snow falling greatly limited visability). He simply did not turn up at C3. This only casualty. Ang Dorje thinks Kim fell just above C3 about 7:30 pm.
Accidents Kim Sung-Kyu disappeared during descent from summit, Sherpa did not see what happened; he did not return to C3 (Ang Dorje thinks Kim fell just above C3 at 7:30 pm)
Achievement 1st Korean ascent
Agency Adventure Nepal
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452509
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-e ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Myung-Ho Cho M 1959 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Salesman, stationery wholesale company Details Other expeditions
Ki-Tae Kim M 1962 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Unemployed, just graduated from university Details Other expeditions
Sung-Gyu Kim M 1962 S Korea Climber Junchon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Don-Yong Lee M 1949 S Korea Leader Yang, Daegu, S Korea Insurance company office worker Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Dakipa Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA286101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:256-257 (1987) -
DHA286101 MM - - - 110:9 (Jul 1986) -
DHA286101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725604/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-II-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -