Dhaulagiri II | 1978 S Face-E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri II in 1978 via S Face-E Ridge, led by Yasuo Onishi. Summit reached on 15th October 1978. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2149
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA278301
Peak ID DHA2
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuo Onishi
Sponsor Kyoto Alpine League Himalaya Expedition 1978
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Chhonbardon Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-09-12
Summit Date 1978-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to Sherpa's cold toes
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(12/09,3700m),Dep(4600m),BC(24/09,5000m),C1(5800m),C2(6550m),C3(09/10,6800m),xxx(15/10,7500m)
Route Notes Iwa-to-Yuki (1979) Iwa-to-Yuki reports that a tent at C3 burned down due to a gas leak which delayed the summit bid. Kawani - 1 Nov 78 Reached TBC 12 Sept BC 24 Sept C3 9 Oct Highest pt - 15 Oct by Hiroyoshi Kawami and Sherpa Changri. 14 Oct - fire in C3 by stove by Sherpa. Attack day 15 Oct: late start and reached 7500m 4:00 pm; no time; Changri's toes freezing so turned back to save his toes. If final camp higher, think success. Very long way to summit. Only 3 climbing members: Onishi returned to Japan during approach march Yasuda sick: pulmonary edema so stayed TBC; now in KTM Ok; no climbing at all. Attack day: Yoji Udagawa in TBC resting. Masaaki Kizaki in attack on 15 Oct but turned back 7300m because tired. So when not successful on 15 Oct, no one to make another attempt on summit. Hiroyoshi Kawami also tired. So climbing finished. Weather very good C1 and above; below C1 clouds and snow. No accidents, frostbite or other illness. Leave KTM after about 2 weeks. Onishi - 19 Aug 78 Same route as this Spr. (Nagoya Alpine Club) East Ridge from South Face 1971 Japanese Dhaulagiri V same route also) This only safe route from south - repeating route of this spring because already made plan and because approach very long via north. 1978 spring: 9 Japanese climbers and 5 HA Sherpas All members in KTM 18 Aug Leave for Pokhara 27 Aug; 14 days caravan to BC with 60 porters Temporary camp at 3700m BC 4900m in Chhonbardan Glacier C3 7000m 1978 spring C3 6600m, C4 7250m; biv 7550m Most difficult part from C3 to summit because after ice face, high altitude for first time in Himalayas for all members. 2 HA Sherpas No oxygen at all (1978 spr oxygen and in fact stopped climbing after 1st successful summit part on top because ran out of oxygen).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449735
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-e ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroyoshi Kawami M 1942 Japan Deputy Leader Hirakata, Osaka, Japan Trader on Osaka securities exchange Details Other expeditions
Masaaki Kizaki M 1954 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Car mechanic Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Onishi M 1935 Japan Leader Kyoto, Japan Salesman of business machines, office furniture & office furnishings Details Other expeditions
Yoji Udagawa M 1952 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Radio engineer (Mitsubishi Co.) Details Other expeditions
Noriaki Yasuda M 1953 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Was Toyota car salesman until he left job to come on expedition Details Other expeditions
Changri Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA278301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:278 (1979) -
DHA278301 IWA - - - 67:147 (1979) -
DHA278301 IWA - - - 67:47 (1979) -
DHA278301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927803/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-II-Postmonsoon-Attempt - - -