Dhaulagiri II | 1978 E Ridge from S

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri II in 1978 via E Ridge from S, led by Yukio Ogawa. Summit reached on 8th May 1978. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2140
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA278101
Peak ID DHA2
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yukio Ogawa
Sponsor Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1978-05-08
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7751
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(3700m),BC(5000m),C1(16/04,5500m),C2(17/04,5900m),C3(29/04,6600m),C4(7250m),Biv(07/05,7550m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes Kawasaki - 23 May 78 Arrived 2 days ago, others arrive KTM 26 May. 1st attack: 2 members from C4 at 7250m Yamada and Takahashi but very long route on 7 May and left biv equipment at 7550m which next day, 8 May Ogawa and Koike used. Climbed by new route, East Ridge from South, very difficult rock band from TBC to BC. BC to C1 8 [hours?] and C1 to C2 5 [hours?]. C2 moved to 6050m because avalanches all time; 300 kg in depot and all taken away by avalanche; no one hurt. No frostbite or accidents. No summit assault after Ogawa and Koike because all oxygen used up. SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78 Success 8 May by East Face C5 on 5 May 7550m Summiters: leader Yukio Ogawa Teruji Koike Summit 9:30 am from C5 All well Mutho - 7 March 78 Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club Same South face side to East Ridge route as 1975 Japanese team All members now in KTM; leave for Pokhara 10 March by bus Caravan starts 12 March, goes up Myagdi Khola to East (SE) Ridge at a col between Dhaulagiri II and point 6599. Arrive BC after 14 days at 4900m. 4 camps above BC, C4 7300m Summit 1st week or 2nd week May 5 Sherpas above BC, sirdar Pemba Nurbu No oxygen for climbing but for sleeping in C4
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449575
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) e ridge from s

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yukio Ogawa M 1944 Japan Leader Nagoya, Japan Owner, shop mechanical tools Details Other expeditions
Masaiku Ogawa M 1947 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Salesman of dye stuff Details Other expeditions
Iwao Yamada M 1946 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Salesman Honda Details Other expeditions
Katsumi Nagai M 1944 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Teruji Koike M 1953 Japan Climber Iijima, Nagano, Japan Owner same shop Details Other expeditions
Takao Utsu M 1949 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Car factory engineer Details Other expeditions
Hideo Amano M 1953 Japan Climber Kasugai, Aichi, Japan Works in father's plastic factory Details Other expeditions
Chihiro Mutho M 1950 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Planning & budget control section in construction machinery factory Details Other expeditions
Masaru Takahashi M 1950 Japan Climber Kowak, Nagoya, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Hidgiake Komaki M 1949 Japan Climber Hatano, Kanagawa, Japan Flight engineer of Air American Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA278101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:278 (1979) -
DHA278101 IWA - - - 67:147 (1979) -
DHA278101 IWA - - - 67:47 (1979) -
DHA278101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927802/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-II-East-Ridge-from-the-South - - -