Dhaulagiri II | 1978 E Ridge from S
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri II in 1978 via E Ridge from S, led by Yukio Ogawa. Summit reached on 8th May 1978. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2140 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA278101 |
| Peak ID | DHA2 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Ridge from S |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Yukio Ogawa |
| Sponsor | Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 1978-05-08 |
| Summit Time | 0930 |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7751 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | TempBC(3700m),BC(5000m),C1(16/04,5500m),C2(17/04,5900m),C3(29/04,6600m),C4(7250m),Biv(07/05,7550m),Smt(08/05) |
| Route Notes | Kawasaki - 23 May 78 Arrived 2 days ago, others arrive KTM 26 May. 1st attack: 2 members from C4 at 7250m Yamada and Takahashi but very long route on 7 May and left biv equipment at 7550m which next day, 8 May Ogawa and Koike used. Climbed by new route, East Ridge from South, very difficult rock band from TBC to BC. BC to C1 8 [hours?] and C1 to C2 5 [hours?]. C2 moved to 6050m because avalanches all time; 300 kg in depot and all taken away by avalanche; no one hurt. No frostbite or accidents. No summit assault after Ogawa and Koike because all oxygen used up. SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78 Success 8 May by East Face C5 on 5 May 7550m Summiters: leader Yukio Ogawa Teruji Koike Summit 9:30 am from C5 All well Mutho - 7 March 78 Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club Same South face side to East Ridge route as 1975 Japanese team All members now in KTM; leave for Pokhara 10 March by bus Caravan starts 12 March, goes up Myagdi Khola to East (SE) Ridge at a col between Dhaulagiri II and point 6599. Arrive BC after 14 days at 4900m. 4 camps above BC, C4 7300m Summit 1st week or 2nd week May 5 Sherpas above BC, sirdar Pemba Nurbu No oxygen for climbing but for sleeping in C4 |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449575 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | e ridge from s |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yukio Ogawa | M | 1944 | Japan | Leader | Nagoya, Japan | Owner, shop mechanical tools | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaiku Ogawa | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Salesman of dye stuff | Details Other expeditions |
| Iwao Yamada | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Salesman Honda | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsumi Nagai | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Factory worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Teruji Koike | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Iijima, Nagano, Japan | Owner same shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Takao Utsu | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Car factory engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Amano | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Kasugai, Aichi, Japan | Works in father's plastic factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Chihiro Mutho | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Planning & budget control section in construction machinery factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaru Takahashi | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Kowak, Nagoya, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hidgiake Komaki | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Hatano, Kanagawa, Japan | Flight engineer of Air American | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa | M | 1949 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA278101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 53:278 (1979) | - |
| DHA278101 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:147 (1979) | - |
| DHA278101 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:47 (1979) | - |
| DHA278101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927802/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-II-East-Ridge-from-the-South | - | - | - |