Dhaulagiri II | 1975 E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri II in 1975 via E Ridge, led by Nobuyoshi Kobayashi. Summit reached on 16th May 1975. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2304
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA275101
Peak ID DHA2
Year 1975
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 S Face (to 7300m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nobuyoshi Kobayashi
Sponsor Tokyo University of Agriculture & Technology Himalayan Exped.
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1975-03-24
Summit Date 1975-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 53
Total Days 62
Termination Date 1975-05-25
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7300m due to lack of campsite for C4
High Point (m) 7300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(24/03,3600m),Dep(28/03,4400m),BC(06/04,5000m),C1(14/04,5300m),C2(20/04,5800m),C3(01/05,6700m),xxx(16/05,7300m)
Route Notes Kanasugi - 3 June 75 Kanasugi, Yamaguchi and Kawashima arrived today. No place above 6700m for campsite; were climbing South Face, not East Ridge which was too steep rock and no place for camps. On South Face put 3 camps and then again some problem of camp site. Reached about 7300m on 16 May by Ojura and Yamaguchi. Used so many days to fix rope up to this point and above this point (avalanche 50-55 degrees) still no place. Every day snow and avalanches from 1st May between C2 and C3. South Face possible if special equipment; need a C4 to reach summit. Others reach Pokhara tomorrow with baggage (except leader in Tokyo). All well. No accidents, no frostbite. Kobayashi - 19 May 75 Expedition leaves BC 25 May. Kobayashi meets in Pokhara, he leaves KTM 20 May; he arrives KTM 17 May after leaving BC 10 May. 10 May expedition C3 at 6700m and reached 7000m - C4 maybe; very steep to site at 7500m. Climbing by snow and ice South Face not East Ridge which is very difficult; near summit reach South Ridge. All members very well, no accidents. Some local porters say see yeti. Hope expedition will succeed but not much time left. Kobayashi reached 7000m and from there route appeared no so difficult to top; reached there making route on 4 May with Ojima (they 1st to reach that altitude). Umeki, leader Dhaulagiri V - 13 May 75 Above and C3 very steep ice 1000m or more; maybe not make C4, but use biv and from there to summit; no accidents so far. Base camp near Dhaulagiri V BC. Tanaka - 11 Feb 75 1 member (Tanaka) arrived KTM 3 members arrived KTM 27 Feb 1 KTM resident last year Leave KTM 5 March to Pokhara by road with 2 catching up. Caravan ex-Pokhara 10 March with 100 porters. Arrive BC 20 days via Myagdi Khola - at turn left south of point 4996 Dhaula Himal map and BC on glacier beyond P 4996 - BC 4700m Route via SE Ridge from South; reach ridge half way between Dhaulagiri II and point 6559; very difficult route; all others approached from north. This 1st attempt from south (not from S just because closed; takes much money for north side because long caravan requiring many porters). 5 high camps - C5 7500m summit 10-20 May 5 climbing Sherpas including sirdar, 1 kitchen boy, 1 butcher and 1 mailrunner. Kobayashi, Kato and Kawashima arrive KTM 16 March; [they saw Khanal] arrive 19 March.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448484
Year 1975
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nobuyoshi Kobayashi M - Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan City government official Details Other expeditions
Asatomo Kato M - Japan Climbing Leader Atsugi, Kanagawa, Japan City government official Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Kameyama M - Japan Manager Nishihara, Okinawa, Japan Staff member, savings and loan association Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Ojima M - Japan Climber Hirato, Nagasaki, Japan Staff member, plywood manufacturing & sales company Details Other expeditions
Isao Yamaguchi M - Japan Climber Futsu, Shinmachi, Japan Sells houesehold electric appliances Details Other expeditions
Bunshichi Tanaka M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Unemployed; was air-cargo export agent Details Other expeditions
Naohisa Kawashima M - Japan Climber Koganei, Tokyo, Japan City government official Details Other expeditions
Kimio Kanasugi M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student, Tokyo University of Agriculture & Technology Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA275101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 50:520 (1976) -
DHA275101 HJ Kameyama, Yoshio Dhaulagiri II - East Ridge, 1975 - 34:31-34 (1974-75) -
DHA275101 IWA - - - 48:60 (1976) -
DHA275101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197652003/Asia-Nepal-Dhualagiri-II-Attempt - - -
DHA275101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/34/4/dhaulagiri-ii-east-ridge-1975/ - - -