Dhaulagiri I | 1999 NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1999 via NE Ridge, led by Martin Fischer. Summit reached on 26th May 1999. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3305
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA199102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1999
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Martin Fischer
Sponsor Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1999-04-29
Summit Date 1999-05-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1999-05-31
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7350m due to difficult snow conditions and lack of strength
High Point (m) 7350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/04,4700m),C1(04/05,5700m),C2(18/05,6550m),C3(26/05,7350m),xxx(26/05,7350m)
Route Notes C1 near Naike Col High point at C3. Apr 29th: arriving in BC Apr 30th: arriving of Ed and Veikka by helicopter May 2nd: transport to C1 May 4th: first night in C1 for Burgener, Sporri, Lauber and Sherpas. Ed and Veikka on summit May 5th: material depot at 6300m May 6th: first night for Berni and Fischer in C1 (after stomach problems in BC) May 7th: Berni and Lauber back to BC. Rest of the group material transport to C2. Prepare tent place, return to C1, rest of day in C1 May 8th: rest day in C1 May 9th: previewed transport to C2 had to be cancelled because of bad weather. Return to BC. May 10th-12th: rest in BC because of bad weather May 13th: weather still bad, no snowfall. Burgener, Lauber, Sporri, Fischer, Pasang and Arjun go up to C1. May 14th: return of this group to BC because start snowing again May 15-16th: weather is getting better. Danger of avalanches. May 17th: C1 (all climbers) 30 to 50 cm fresh snow May 18th: Burgener, Sporri, Fischer and Sherpas to C2. Very hard conditions because of the fresh snow (old snow beyond was still very soft). Our depot on the prepared camp place is under 2m of wind-driven snow. May 19th: after two very hard days Burgener and Sporri go back to C1 Fischer and Sherpas start to C3. Fischer returns after 6800m back to C2. Pasang and Arjun reach C3 on 7250m, make a depot and return to C2. Together with Fischer back to C1 in the evening. Lauber and Berni go back to BC. May 21st all back to BC May 22nd-23rd rest days in BC May 24th: all to C1 except Berni (still stomach problems) may 25th: C2 May 26th: climb to C3 with the main part of the material and with exchanging of some old fix ropes. Arriving at C3 at 3:30 pm only. Because of much less snow we had to make half of the tent platform in the ice by ice axe, what takes us another 3 hours. May 27th: after a difficult night Lauber and Sporri return to C2 and C1 in the morning. Burgener, Fischer and Sherpas intend to have a rest day and to start to the summit early the next morning. Bernadette didn't feel good so that I decided in the afternoon to stop the expedition here and to go down to C2 with everything. May 28th: return to BC with all equipment. May 29th: cerebral edema of Arjun during the night. Sending kitchen boy to Marpha for calling helicopter. May 30th: helicopter flight for Arjun and Pasang to KTM May 31th way back to Marpha for members June 1st: rest day in Marpha June 2nd: flight back from Jomsom to KTM Notes: - during the first period we had excellent conditions - after the snowfall the conditions were hard because the old snow under the fresh snow was very soft - C1 was near the col on 5700m, C2 on 6550m - between 5600m and 5800m the glacier was extremely open, the snow bridges very weak - Ruedi Berni had stomach problems since arriving BC. He reached C2 without sleeping there. He left BC with us. - the way to C3 on 27th May took us much more time as we calculated (heavy bags, controlling fix ropes, new fix points). So we arrived 3 hours later than previewed. - the preparation of the camp platform by ice axes took us too much power. Instead of resting, cooking, drinking and eating during the whole afternoon we were extremely engaged to put up the tent before night. That is the main reason, why we didn't start to the summit the next morning. - at least we are very happy that we returned to BC without climbing higher. If Arjun got his edema in C3 or two it would be extremely critical. - the weather between the 23rd and 29th May was absolutely excellent! - we didn't use any oxygen, except of Arjun's edema and Ruedi's stomach problem we all was in really good health, no frostbites, no accidents. - the BC is extremely dirty. Hundreds of empty tins, bottles and any other kind of garbage is lieing around Fischer's report to Tourism Ministry on 3 June 99 said: BC - 29 April at 4700m C1 - 4 May 5700m C2 - 18 May 6500m C3 - 26 May 7350m by Burgener, Fischer, Lauber, Sporri Abandoned climb at 7350m 27 May because of "difficult conditions." Left BC 31 May and returned to Kathmandu on 2 June. Two "Sherpas" went above BC and high-altitude porter Arjun Tamang got cerebral edema at BC.
Accidents Berni stomach problem; high altitude porter Arjun Tamang cerebral edema
Achievement -
Agency Iceland Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457284
Year 1999
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rudolf Berni M 1966 Switzerland Climber Davos-Platz, Graubunden, Switzerland Logger Details Other expeditions
Bernadette Burgener F 1961 Switzerland Climber St. German, Valais, Switzerland Nurse Details Other expeditions
Martin Fischer M 1959 Switzerland Leader St. German, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Lauber M 1971 Switzerland Climber Davos, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fluvin Sporri M 1943 Switzerland Climber Languiesen, Zurich, Switzerland Controller Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Arjun Tamang M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.