Dhaulagiri I | 1998 NE Ridge

A Greece expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1998 via NE Ridge, led by Ioannis Katrivanos. Summit reached on 2nd October 1998. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3139
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA198302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Greece
Leaders Ioannis Katrivanos
Sponsor Hellenic Mountaineering Club of Athens Dhaulagiri 1998
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 103 claimed
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed True
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-09-08
Summit Date 1998-10-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1998-10-09
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due to bad snow conditions and death of Tsoupras
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6600m),C3(01/10,7550m),xxx(02/10,8100m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at NE Col C2 on NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge High point at least, perhaps summit. Sherpas established C3 26 Sept but did not sleep there. Summit team of Kotronaros and Tsoupras left BC on 29 Sept and slept in C1; 30th slept in C2; 1 Oct after 10 hours hard effort reached C3 - much wind and quite exhausted by deep snow. Left C3 for top on 2nd Oct at 6:00 am, quite late; Tsoupras was leading by 100m; Kotronaros not feeling up to going to summit and turned back at 7700m at about 9:00 am and back to C3; snow knee deep but visability good; very cold. Tsoupras followed standard route and was last seen at 10:00 am from C3 at about 7800m on traverse on N Face; he signaled he was Ok and going for top - seen moving slowly till 10:30 am at 7850m and then no longer visible (misty and rocks of snowfield obscured vision) to Kotronaros. At about 3:30 pm Japanese saw him just below summit and about same time leader from BC saw him only few minutes from top at bottom of summit couloir; after 4:30 pm wind strong, blowing spindrift snow. During night snowfall and wind blowing strong. Kotronaros waiting for his return. 5th Oct Tsiantos, Mondinelli and Spanish (Aguirre) and 2 Spanish Sherpas reached 7900m and found nothing of missing member and turned back in deep snow (Tsiantos toes frostbitten somewhat). 4th Oct Kotronaros down to base camp; Tsiantos had arrived on 3rd at C3 and spent 4th in camp waiting for other teams men to come up for summit bid and slept in C2 on 5th with others and in base camp 6th and climb finished because of death of friend. "We believe that he reached summit" - was seen by leader about 80m vertically from top and Japanese saw him "some where there" and congratulated Greek on his success. "I think he did summit very late in afternoon and maybe lost his way and slipped maybe he made a snowhole and never left it, or maybe small avalanche hit him." He had been to 7300m and last spring and now he pushed himself very hard this time "to the limit" to get the summit now. Greeks will declare on return home that he reached top.
Accidents Tsiantos frostbitten toe
Achievement -
Agency Ang Rita Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457047
Year 1998
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nikolaos Hadjis M 1973 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Alpine instructor & guide Details Other expeditions
Ioannis Katrivanos M 1941 Greece Leader Athens, Greece Businessman Details Other expeditions
Panagiotis Kotronaros M 1970 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Pavlos Tsiantos M 1968 Greece Climber Larissa, Greece Sound engineer Details Other expeditions
Charalampos (Babis) Tsoupras M 1962 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Post office clerk Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA198302 HIGH - - - 198:41-42 (May 1999) -