Dhaulagiri I | 1998 NE Ridge

A Slovenia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1998 via NE Ridge, led by Tone Skarja. Summit reached on 23rd May 1998. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2619
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA198106
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 N Spur (Eiger)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Tone Skarja
Sponsor Slovenian Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 97th-99th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kali Gandaki (good rte for acclim but difficult for loads)->BC
Basecamp Date 1998-04-27
Summit Date 1998-05-23
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 26
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1998-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/04,4760m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(04/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7500m),Smt(23-24,26/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 a little below NE Col C2 a little left of NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge. Did not attempt North Face because after 4 May deep snow piled up and avalanched and strong winds came, so abandoned plan for North Face climb and followed normal route. 19 May Stres because seriously ill with cerebral edema in C3 and had to be carried down quickly by Slovenes and "nice" help from Italian team and every 100m of descent his health improved and in BC was normal. 3 summit teams to top on 3 days. Meglic climbed for 15 hours only from BC to top if counting climbing time only but spent nights in C1 and C3 on way to top. On 25 May Stres and Markovic at midnight (of 24/25) left BC and went to north side to climb North Face of "Eiger" spur; at 2:00 am started up the Eiger and reached its top at 4:00 pm in about 1000 vertical meter ascent of small icefalls and rock 40 degrees in upper part; from its top moved left along ridge and reached normal route a litte below C1 and at 9:00 pm were in BC; this climb in "face climbing" style.
Accidents Stres altitude sickness; Karnicar apparent heart attack at C2
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456915
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tadej Golob M 1967 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Journalist Details Other expeditions
Viktor (Viki) Groselj M 1952 Slovenia Deputy Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Jakofcic M 1970 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Technical student Details Other expeditions
Davorin (Davo) Karnicar M 1962 Slovenia Climber Jezersko, Slovenia Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Gregor Kresal M 1969 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Architect Details Other expeditions
Gregor Lacen M 1976 Slovenia Climber Crna, Slovenia Economist Details Other expeditions
Miha Marence M 1974 Slovenia Climber Preddvor, Slovenia Economics student Details Other expeditions
Andrej Markovic M 1976 Slovenia Climber Dolenjske Toplice, Slovenia Sports student Details Other expeditions
Janko Meglic M 1965 Slovenia Climber Trzic, Slovenia Car mechanic Details Other expeditions
Damjan Mesko M 1938 Slovenia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Peter Meznar M 1972 Slovenia Climber Tolmin, Slovenia Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Dusan Polenik M 1968 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Social worker Details Other expeditions
Anton (Tone) Skarja M 1937 Slovenia Leader Menges, Slovenia Retired electro-technician Details Other expeditions
Blaz Stres M 1974 Slovenia Climber Tolmin, Slovenia Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Rafael (Rafa) Vodisek M 1953 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Technician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA198106 AAJ Skarja, Tone - - 73:368 (1999) -
DHA198106 HIGH - - - 193:28-29 (Dec 1998) -
DHA198106 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199936800/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Northeast-Ridge - - -