Dhaulagiri I | 1998 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1998 via NE Ridge, led by Juan Jose San Sebastian. Summit reached on 22nd May 1998. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2617
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA198104
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juan Jose San Sebastian
Sponsor Spanish Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1998
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 96th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-04-11
Summit Date 1998-05-22
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 41
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1998-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,4700m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(21/04,6600m),C3(20/05,7200m),Smt(22/05)
Route Notes 1st attempt 2 May by Juanito with Bereziartua and Vallezo of other Basque team to an aluminum pole which is not on top but is 50m below it; here many people consider it at top and go back from here; here ridge is very sharp and difficult to go higher and to get to true top one must traverse at about 8100m across North Face to point slightly beyond true summit and back on ridge to top. When reaching pole and peak slightly above, one can see more peaks and true top beyond. So down on 2 May to C3 and next day to BC. Tried again on 13 May all Juanito's members and San Sebastian's Inurrategi brothers, Lazkano and San Sebastian BC to C1 and brothers and Juanito's 4 to C2 that day. 14th 5 men to C3 (Roju not). 15th waited in C3 because wind. 16th leave C3 for top but at 7400m because snow looked like slabs and dangerous and some members had stomach problems so down to BC same day. 20th Inurrategi brothers and Juanito BC to C2. 21st to C3, 22nd to top, from C3 at 2:00 am and on top 10:00 am and down to C2 at 5:00 pm. This time made proper traverse to true summit. This route not difficult most of its length only problem is traverse where snow slabs are dangerous and there is small couloir up to ridge.
Accidents Tamayo fell into crevasse and badly bruised
Achievement -
Agency Sea to Summit Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456914
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alberto Inurrategi Iriarte M 1968 Spain Climber Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Felix Inurrategi Iriarte M 1967 Spain Climber Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Jon Lazkano Agirre M 1969 Spain Climber Bergara, Guipuzcoa, Spain Tour guide Details Other expeditions
Jose Antonio Perez Grueso Salon M 1954 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Juan Jose (Juanjo) San Sebastian M 1955 Spain Leader Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Bank employee Details Other expeditions
Jose Carlos Tamayo Gegundez M 1958 Spain Climber Sestao, Vizcaya, Spain Tourist guide & alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA198104 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 73:369-370 (1999) -
DHA198104 HIGH - - - 193:28-29 (Dec 1998) -
DHA198104 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199936904/Asia-Nepal-All-14-8000-Meter-Summits - - -