Dhaulagiri I | 1997 N Face-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1997 via N Face-NW Ridge, led by Masayuki Matsubara. Summit reached on 18th October 1997. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2387
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA197301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masayuki Matsubara
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-09-08
Summit Date 1997-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 57
Termination Date 1997-11-04
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to bad snow conditions, wind, supplies of food and fuel running short
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5450m),C2(22/09,6000m),C3(28/09,6700m),C4(16/10,7100m),xxx(18/10,7500m)
Route Notes BC at normal site for NE Ridge route C3 at bottom of Pear C4 nearly at top of Pear High point at NW Ridge. At C3 and above no good places for camps, so had to dig away snow to make small sites for C3 and C4 on very steep snow face. 18 Oct reached NW Ridge at 7500m and intended to pitch C5 near that point but down to C4 and on 19th and 20th down to BC because wind and snow. After this reached only C2 because heavy snow fall (BC 1m - high altitude 3.5m) and winds. At C2 on 1 Nov only to retrieve gear, not to make progress higher on mountain.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456697
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-nw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kousuke Itaya M 1974 Japan Climber Warabi, Saitama, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Yu Kawataka M 1974 Japan Climber Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Matsubara M 1965 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Megumi Matsumoto F 1965 Japan BC Manager Fukuoka, Japan Employee in mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Matsumoto M 1965 Japan Climber Fukuoka, Japan Employee in mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Masakazu Okuda M 1966 Japan Climber Ise, Mie, Japan Office clerk Details Other expeditions
Atsushi Shiina M 1970 Japan Climber Hoya, Tokyo, Japan Bookshop employee Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Tanahashi M 1963 Japan Deputy Leader Yugawara, Kanagawa, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA197301 JAC Matsubara, Masayuki Returning Alive from Mt. Dhaulagiri I - 93:A42-45 (1998) -
DHA197301 HIGH - - - 188:25 (Jul 1998) -
DHA197301 JAC Matsubara, Masayuki Returning Alive from Mt. Dhaulagiri I - 93:122-128 (1998) -