Dhaulagiri I | 1997 NE Ridge

A Australia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1997 via NE Ridge, led by Zac Zaharias. Summit reached on 25th May 1997. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2206
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA197106
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Zac Zaharias
Sponsor Australian Army Alpine Association Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 92nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1997-04-16
Summit Date 1997-05-25
Summit Time 1830
Summit Days 39
Total Days 43
Termination Date 1997-05-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/04,4500m),ABC(21/04),C1(28/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6700m),C3(06/05,7250m),C4(23/05,7450m),Smt(25/05)
Route Notes Agnew, Caldwell, Killip, Molyneaux, Sparks and Walton left on 23 May because they could not summit and wanted to trek back. 21 April started to climb and established glacier camp. All got there. 22-24 April ferrying gear to glacier camp. On 24 April Caldwell, Killip, Laursen, Lock, Rogerson, Sparks and Zaharias slept there. On 25th April set up C1 and returned to glacier camp; Lock and Rogerson slept at C1 on 26 April. Lock and Rogerson set up C2 and returned to C1. The rest moved to C2. Lock and Rogerson slept at C2 on 29 April. Then all went to BC to rest. 2 May went to C1 (Zaharias, Agnew, Killip, Rogerson, Sparks, Molyneaux and Laursen) and slept there. On May 3 Zaharias, Rogerson and Laursen went to C2 while Lock, Caldwell went to C1. On May 4 Zaharias, Rogerson, Lock and Laursen stayed at C2. The others carried gear there. On May 5 rested at C2. Killip moved up to C2. May 6 Lock and Rogerson occupied C3. Zaharias and Laursen carried gear to C6 and slept at C1. Zaharias and Laursen carried gear to C3 and slept at C1. Agnew, Molyneaux and Caldwell occupied C2. On 7 May most descended. May 8 severe storm. Those at C2 descended to C1. May 9 stayed there. May 10 all descended BC strong wind and a meter of deep snow. May 11-12 rest days. May 13 first summit attempt by Lock, Laursen, Zaharias and Rogerson. Slept at C1. May 14 moved to C2. May 15 rested at C2 more snow (one meter more). May 16 down to C1 in waist-deep snow. May 17 back to BC. 20 May to C1 the [above] four and Van Roy, Caldwell, Agnew and Walton. May 21 the four and Van Roy went to C2, the others returned to BC. May 22 Zaharias, Lock, Laursen and Rogerson slept at C3, Van Roy at C2. May 23 the 4 slept at C4, the other 6 went back. May 24 rested at C4. May 25 left for summit at 7:45 am for knee-deep snow after wind stopped. The clouds came in at 11 am. At 3 pm the clouds broke. There was some sunshine. Reached the summit ridge at 6:30 pm. Then a breeze started blow which continued till 9 pm getting stronger. Spent 5 minutes at the summit. Descended and 1/2 hour later wind started to pick up. Then it got very cold. Reached C4 at 1 am of May 26. Laursen climbed to 7700m and returned because he was too tired. Stayed there till midday and descended to C3. Laursen and Zaharias stayed then other two descended to C2. Strong winds at night. On 27th May Laursen and Zaharias came down to C2 and all slept at C1. May 28 down to BC.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st Australian ascent
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456551
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nevin Agnew M 1961 Australia Climber Canberra, ACT, Australia Attorney Details Other expeditions
Allen Robert Caldwell M 1965 Australia Climber Wyndham, WA, Australia Nurse Details Other expeditions
Robert Douglas (Bob) Killip M 1953 Australia Climber Kangaroo Valley, NSW, Australia Management consultant Details Other expeditions
Brian Patrick (Henri) Laursen M 1968 Australia Climber Richmond, NSW, Australia Air Force technician (Corporal) Details Other expeditions
Andrew James Lock M 1961 Australia Climber Gordon, NSW, Australia Mountaineering equipment shop assistant Details Other expeditions
Andrew Robert Molyneaux M 1963 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Matthew David Rogerson M 1969 Australia Climber Shenton Park, WA, Australia Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Jon Sparks M 1960 Australia Climber St. Ives, NSW, Australia Lieutenant Commander in Australian Navy Details Other expeditions
Alex Van Roy M 1965 Australia Climber Springwood, NSW, Australia Army Major Details Other expeditions
Matt Walton M 1966 Australia Climber Townsville, QLD, Australia Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Zacharakis (Zac) Zaharias M 1956 Australia Leader Campbell, ACT, Australia Major in Australian Army Details Other expeditions
Martin Banfield M 1971 Australia BC Manager Carlingford, NSW, Australia Army Captain Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA197106 HIGH - - - 179:30 (Oct 1997) -