Dhaulagiri I | 1995 NE Ridge

A Netherlands expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1995 via NE Ridge, led by Bart Vos. Summit reached on 12th October 1995. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1622
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA195308
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders Bart Vos
Sponsor Dutch Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-09-24
Summit Date 1995-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1995-10-18
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due to Belarussian woman who became his moral responsibility & then slightly sick
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed 7 peaks around Hidden Valley including Sita Chuchura (SITA-953-01), Tongu and Hongde
Campsites BC(24/09,4650m),Biv(27/09,5130m),C1(28/09,5775m),C2(07/10,6550m),C3(09/10,7400m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
Route Notes BC at 1/2 hour below all other teams BC at site of 1960's Biv above icefall C1 at NE Col C2 on NE Ridge - tent moved to C3 High point at North Face 50m below summit. Stayed several days on way to BC and below French Col of 5150m in Hidden Valley and in 8 days climbed 7 peaks: Sita Chuchura (22-3 Sept via N Face to E Ridge); Tongu Peak (18th Sept or it's S Summit - maps not clear). Hongde (16th Sept via SE Face). 12th Oct left at C3 at 7:30-8:00 am, soon Belarussian woman Irina Vialenkova closely following him with poor equipment and no technique (bumping her head against his crampons and thus endangering his life). Vos very strong but felt responsible for her and had to turn back because she very slow ascent: they would have reached top at 6:00 pm and she had no headlamp; Vos turned back at 16:30 while she went on up 10m, then down. He was back in C3 at 17:30+. She said couldn't find end of fixed ropes and probably did biv at 7700m. Hoped to go again to top, but got sick on 13th and down to C1 14th, where food and other items stolen, and to BC 15th. Vos doubted that woman reached the top. Milja De Zwart - July 19, 2000 A Dutch newspaper published an interview with Irina Vialenkova. She's the Russian climber, from Minsk who spent a night outside, high on the Dhaulagiri in 1995. She lost both feet, up to the ankles. Bart Vos was with her in 1995. He didn't reach the top, and when he came home, he blamed Irina for it. He said this mad woman followed him, hoping like a rabbit in his trail and stated she had no experience at all. Irina now claimed Bart Vos slow, she should have passed him, but she didn't, so she reached summit too late (that is, if she ever reached it, she lost her photo's on the way down). It was just Irina Vialenkova's story versus Bart Vos's, but the result is most people lost their faith in Vos.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Trekking International
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455958
Year 1995
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bart Vos M 1951 Netherlands Leader Femnes, Netherlands Manager (IBM) Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA195308 HIGH - - - 161:39 (Apr 1996) -