Dhaulagiri I | 1995 NE Ridge

A Bulgaria expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1995 via NE Ridge, led by Borislav Dimitrov. Summit reached on 12th October 1995. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1618
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA195307
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Bulgaria
Leaders Borislav Dimitrov
Sponsor Bulgarian Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 83rd-84th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belarus
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-09-22
Summit Date 1995-10-12
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 20
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1995-10-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4750m),C1(26/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6600m),C3(04/10,7400m),Smt(12/10)
Route Notes Dimitrov was faster than Shinkarenko, whom Dimitrov met in Dimitrov's descent and Shinkarenko's ascent, they climbed from C3 together for 3 hours (they left 6:30 am) and Shinkarenko on 20m below summit 1 hour after Dimitrov and Dimitrov met him there and from there they descended together; to C3, Dimitrov at 6 pm, 1 hour before Shinkarenko. In descent at 3:30 pm Dimitrov met Vialenkova and Bart Vos at 7900-7950m, told them they needed 3 more hours for top; Vos turned back here while Vialenkova said she reached top at 5:30 pm, bived under rocks at c7700m and reached C3 at 9 am of 13th (Dimitrov went to BC on 13th), C2 that afternoon (no one in C1) and C1 in evening at 11 pm crawling; doctor was in C1. 14th Oct Lipen with serious lung problem crawled from C2 to C1. Dimitrov sent Japanese Sherpa (Dawa) to C1 with oxygen for Lipen and to carry down on his back Vialenkova with help Ivanov and Petkov. Dr Ivanova had to operate on Lipen in C1 to open his nearly closed throat. 14th 2 members to top; Horozov so late he also bivouacked at 7700m with only frostnip as result; both so exhausted they reached BC in evening 18th Oct. All now in BC and Dimitrov left BC 19th with Ivanov and Dimitrov's wife because wanted to get back to Kathmandu. Bart Vos doubted that Vialenkova reached the top (see notes from his expedition DHA1-953-08). Kalina Kovacheva - May 2005 Kovacheva sent email message to Liz Hawley stating that a recent press release by Boris Dimitrov said that Horozov and Vasilev stopped 100m short of the summit, but claimed success in order to promote sponsorship of the next expedition. At a press-conference after the climb of Shisha Pangma in 1999, Doychin Vassilev confessed that he and Karina Salova spent the night at 7995m and headed back the next day without reaching the peak. Boris Dimitrov - 1 June 2005 I am writing to you on your request and demand of Kalina Kovacheva (Bulgarian publicist and writer), who is my friend. The real thing, who climbed and not Dhaulagiri in my expedition, Oct 1995, is: I myself climbed to the very top. The final ridge (100m) was comparatively difficult. And my two partners this day, Belarussian climber from another expedition [Alexander Shinkarenko] and two hours later Irina Vialenkova (also from Belarussia), they just reached and stopped at the end of the traverse, 100m (1 hour) before the top. Two days later Doychin Vassilev and Zaprian Horozov as partners reached the same place, 100m before the top (the same place as Irina). They stopped and returned back. Zaprian, very slow, spent the night outside and had mild frostbite. The two of them came down four days later, because of bad weather in camp 1 and we worried that they will not survive. This expedition was my first, personally organized. I decided to change then the reality 5%, because of their wishes to lie in Bulgaria (I think, reason not for sponsorship but just for fame). I personally was satisfied with my ascent and didn't want to push them down, it could show a primitive look in our climbing society. Let them be happy, if they want to do it this way. Finally in his video, we put my static slides for the TV. I said the truth four years later, in 1999 here in the press, when Doychin started to lie about another two ascents, Cho Oyu, where he stopped one hour before the top and Shisha (Xixabangma), where they climbed to the north peak (fore-summit) with Kalina, but shouting to the press that it's the main summit. It's too much to disinform climbers and then I started to be angry with myself that on the first expedition I helped him to start changing the truth so easy. If you have some more questions I'll always be happy to help and inform. Please don't be angry with my former position.
Accidents Vialenkova badly frostbitten feet; Lipen recovering in BC from throat operation
Achievement -
Agency In Wilderness (Kunga)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455958
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Borislav Mihaylov Dimitrov M 1967 Bulgaria Leader Sofia, Bulgaria Civil engineering student & camping equipment distributor Details Other expeditions
Ilia Gueorguiev M 1939 Bulgaria Climber Vratza, Bulgaria Tour manager Details Other expeditions
Zaprian Stoyanov Horozov M 1955 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Mountain rescue service man Details Other expeditions
Kiril Ivanov M 1955 Bulgaria Climber Varna, Bulgaria Construction company executive Details Other expeditions
Karina Salova Ivanova F 1953 Bulgaria Exp Doctor Vratza, Bulgaria Physician Details Other expeditions
Edouard Lipen M 1936 Belarus Exp Doctor Minsk, Belarus Physician Details Other expeditions
Zdravko Petkov M 1957 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Importer Details Other expeditions
Doychin Todorov Vasilev M 1944 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Printing inks distributor Details Other expeditions
Irina Vialenkova F 1957 Belarus Climber Minsk, Belarus Bookkeeper Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA195307 HIGH - - - 161:39 (Apr 1996) -