Dhaulagiri I | 1995 NE Ridge

A Georgia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1995 via NE Ridge, led by Gia Tortladze. Summit reached on 8th October 1995. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1620
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA195306
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Georgia
Leaders Gia Tortladze
Sponsor Georgian Himalayan Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 80th-83rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belarus, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan
Approach Via Kali Gandaki
Basecamp Date 1995-09-20
Summit Date 1995-10-08
Summit Time 1210
Summit Days 18
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1995-10-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,4600m),C1(23/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6500m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(08-09,11-12/10)
Route Notes 25th Sept to BC and rest 3 days. 29th up to C1; 4 members to C3 and again all in BC. 7th Oct start summit push from BC 4 members to C1. Boukreev 7th 6:30 from BC, 9:30 in C1, 8th Oct 5 pm. He comes down through C2 where same 4 members already arrived; he said he reached top at 12:10 pm and Bulgarian already in C3; Ratchev stopped in C3 while Boukreev in BC at 8:00-9:00 pm. 4 members 9th Oct into C3 and 10th stayed C3 in strong winds. 11th wind not so strong so 8 am 2 members up and 8:30 am other 2 members also start up; 2 pm and 3:30 pm they on top; 6:30 pm in BC to sleep; when going up, these 4 members met Tontchev in his descent. 12th Shinkarenko summited with leader of Bulgarian leader Dimitrov at 2 pm. 24 Oct Boukreev's ascent: 7 Oct - left BC 6:30 pm (used Japanese fixed rope very little). Arrived C1 9:30 pm, C2 11:30 pm. Strong cold winds. 8th Oct left C2 2:00 am. Arrived C3 5:30 am, arrived summit 11:30 am. 8th Oct arrive C3? arrive C2 5:00 pm, arrive C1 c6:00 pm, arrive BC 7:30 pm. 31 Oct 95 - Dutch soloist, Bart Vos, said of Boukreev: "The Russian [Kazakh] moved with his crampons like he was born with them on his feet...he used his crampons so easily, so smoothly." Gia Tortladze - 23 May 2005 I met Gia Tortladze today and asked him about Dhaulagiri in 1995 as I had heard rumors that some Russians were questioning his ascent of Dhaulagiri. He was puzzled about Russians raising summit questions since there were no Russians there. After we got past that, he was sure he went to the highest summit since there was nothing higher to be seen, but ... he knew nothing about a false summit. He drew a rough sketch of the north side and northeast ridge, and showed that he had gone up the north face and gotten to the ridge at about 8050m, then followed the ridge from there to the top without having made a traverse out onto the face. I think this one should perhaps be marked as disputed. I am meeting some climbers back from Dhaulagiri soon, and I'll ask whether Tortladze might have gotten on the ridge high enough so as not to have needed to make a traverse. 2005 Italian Dhaulagiri team - May 2005 I have met the Italians from Dhaulagiri I and they reported that their high point was the false summit at 8120m. So if this altitude is correct, Tortladze did not get onto the ridge above it (he gave his altitude at the ridge as 8050m). Boris Dimitrov - 1 June 2005 Dimitrov states that Shinkarenko did not reach the summit on 12 Oct 1995 (see route notes from Dimitrov's expedition DHA1-953-07).
Accidents Slight frostbite only
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455909
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zurab Astakhishvili M 1951 Georgia Exp Doctor Tbilisi, Georgia Physician Details Other expeditions
David Chantladze M 1959 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Geologist Details Other expeditions
Afi Gigani M 1956 Georgia Climber Kutaisi, Georgia Airplane pilot Details Other expeditions
Bidzina Gujabidze M 1960 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Physicist Details Other expeditions
Gela Otarashvili M 1960 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Physicist Details Other expeditions
Radko Ratchev M 1962 Bulgaria Climber Aetos, Bulgaria Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Alexander Shinkarenko M 1954 Belarus Climber Borisov, Belarus Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Toncho Tonchev M 1967 Bulgaria Climber Plovdiv, Bulgaria Agronomist Details Other expeditions
Gia Tortladze M 1960 Georgia Leader Tbilisi, Georgia Historian Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide & coach Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA195306 AAJ Boukreev, Anatoli The Roads We Choose - 70:29-38 (1996) -
DHA195306 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199602900/The-Roads-We-Choose-A-Himalayan-Season - - -