Dhaulagiri I | 1995 NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1995 via NE Ridge, led by Norbert Joos. Summit reached on 15th May 1995. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1420
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA195102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Norbert Joos
Sponsor Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition 1995
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 73rd-75th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Germany, Mexico
Approach Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1995-05-01
Summit Date 1995-05-15
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 14
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/05,4800m),C1(04/05,5800m),C2(09/05,6800m),C3(16/05,7500m),Smt(15,17,19/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 just below North Col C2 on NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge above shoulder. Joos and Ennemoser went to 7500m with Carsolio and turned back at 3 am because not well acclimatized & dangerously sleepy. 17th Kofler and Schmid left C3 16th 8 pm and climbed through night and were on top at 8 am 17th & down to C1 same day. 19th summiters: 18th Joos and Ennemoser made snow cave at 7700m and next morning left for top 5 am and on top, Ennemoser on top at 9 am and Joos at 9:30 am after falling on route and down to C1. Braschler and Hammann left C3 at midnight and on summit at 2 pm together; started down at 3:30 pm together in strong wind. Braschler saw Hammann lying on plateau and 5-6m away his stick on snow; he was unaware pole not with him - discussed medical treatment and resumed descent, Braschler first; Braschler waited for him, called to him, he appeared on ridge looking down, disappeared & reappeared, shouted he had helicopter and now was not rational and refused to go down perhaps waiting for helicopters. Braschler tried to go up to him but in 15 minutes only, 10 mins gained because of exhaustion and went down; no other member able to go up to Hammann in "reasonable time." He/his body left at 8150m. Hammann was now totally irrational with serious altitude sickness and would die of it soon or freeze to death soon. Avalanche danger too great to climb middle of North Face, so joined Swiss route perhaps 10 days after they had been there, On 14th 4:00 am started up from BC with Joos, G. Ennemoser, Schneider, Kofler and Sommer. Above C1 only Carsolio, Joos Ennemoser continued up to C2 at 6400m at 2:00 pm and rested and cooked. At 10:00 pm 3 men continued up but at 7200m Joos and Ennemoser not well enough acclimatized and went down. Carlos on up, visited Russians (woke them up) at 7500m and left them at 5:00 am and on to top in quite deep snow but no wind, no clouds, even warm ("perfect day"). 30 hours from BC to top despite deep snow at 10:00 am. Down all the way to C1 at about 6:00 (before sunset). Too dangerous to descend to the side of icefall at night, so stopped at C1. 16th BC arrived 8:00 am. Carsolis did no climbing on Dhaulagiri till push to top on 14-15th. Now Carsolis had only Gasherbrums I and II and Manaslu still to climb among the 8000ers. "I am not in a hurry but I would like to climb there I will decide when I am home and see my daughter." He is a member of Wielicki's Gasherbrum I and II expedition for arrival on 15 June, but chances are 50-50 whether he goes or not. German summiter Albrecht Hamman died near the summit in his descent. His body lies on its back and is seen by most Dhaulagiri I summiters via the NE Ridge. The father of a Spanish climber, Quico Dalmases, came to believe that this body was that of his son who disappeared when he was climbing alone in the autumn of 1989, and the father, Joan Dalmases, appealed in the spring of 2007 to climbers that season to check various details to identify the body as that of Quico. Inaki Ochoa, one of the climbers whom Dalmases asked for help, summited Dhaulagiri I on 26 April 2007, said that the body was that of the German on Norbert Joos's team in the spring of 1995. The kind of crampons worn by the body did not exist in 1989.
Accidents Hammann 19th May cerebral edema and froze to death
Achievement 1st Mexican and 1st Swiss woman
Agency International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455763
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Urs Braschler M 1951 Switzerland Climber Bueren, Aargau, Switzerland Forestry engineer Details Other expeditions
Fredl (Alfred) Beetschen M 1948 Switzerland Climber Davos, Graubunden, Switzerland Cook Details Other expeditions
Gerold Ennemoser M 1961 Austria Climber Laengenfeld, Tirol, Austria Teacher Details Other expeditions
Albrecht Hammann M 1949 Germany Climber Schliersee, Bavaria, Germany Architect Details Other expeditions
Norbert Joos M 1960 Switzerland Leader Chur, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Heinz Kettner M 1951 Switzerland Climber Eglisan, Zurich, Switzerland Glass technician Details Other expeditions
Mario Kofler M 1953 Switzerland Climber Chur, Graubunden, Switzerland Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Bruno Roth Zaugg M 1949 Switzerland Film Team Niederteufen, St. Gallen, Switzerland Film cameraman Details Other expeditions
Renate Schmid F 1962 Switzerland Climber Aussenberg, Valais, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Christoph Sommer M 1959 Switzerland Exp Doctor Felsberg, Graubunden, Switzerland Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Josef Huber M 1959 Austria Film Team St. Gallen, St. Gallen, Switzerland Film sound engineer Details Other expeditions
Werner Maier M 1961 Switzerland Film Team Vandarns, Switzerland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Frank Senn M 1963 Switzerland Journalist Bern, Switzerland Journalist Details Other expeditions
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Outdoor adventure instructor Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA195102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:270 (1996) -
DHA195102 HIGH - - - 155:19 (Oct 1995) -
DHA195102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627002/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Ascents-and-Tragedy - - -