Dhaulagiri I | 1994 NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1994 via NE Ridge, led by Franco Dellatorre. Summit reached on 10th December 1994. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1418
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA194401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1994
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Franco Dellatorre
Sponsor Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Morang->Thorang Pass->Kali Gandaki south
Basecamp Date 1994-11-02
Summit Date 1994-12-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1994-12-12
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of rope
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/11,4800m),C1(06/12,6000m),xxx(10/12,6500m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 100m above NE Col High point on NE Ridge. Make C1 180m above col because many crevasses at col and it is very windy - had to fix rope in icefall and had to refix often because everyday changing with seracs falling; stayed close to rock. C1 only fixed camp; stayed here 4 nights but every day up to acclimatize (to 7000m) before trying for top from C1. One day a 300m long crevasse had opened, 1m wide but could cross it; used maybe 4m of autumn team's fixed ropes; no more than that still in proper place. From BC could see with binoculars would need to fix perhaps 400m rope and sent letter to his trekking agent to send this rope to BC and on 7th Dec Sherpa with rope met LO in Marpha. LO said Dellatore coming to Marpha on 10th so not necessary for Sherpa to go further and to leave rope and Rs. with him. Dellatore had sent letter from BC to Mainali saying he would try for top 12-13 Dec and if successful would send kitchen boy again on 15th to arrange porters. On 10th Dellatore returned BC to receive rope but not at BC. Waited one day and then left, abandoning climb. Had expected to be able to use fixed ropes left by autumn expeditions. Dellatore climbed entirely alone throughout climb. 26 Dec 94 - Tourism ministry official, Padma KC, says LO had not been informed by BC that rope was needed. LO at Marpha recieved letter from sirdar at BC saying all was well, supplies were sufficient, Dellatore was trying for summit on 12-13 Dec and if he could not succeed, he would come down on 15th. No mention of rope needed and not clear whether Dellatore would make another summit bid after 15th. Dellatore should have brought rope with him from Kathmandu, not rely on old fixed ropes; anyway he was supposed climb alpine-style. Rope sent from Kathmandu arrived at Marpha and a porter set out with it for BC but he was unable to get to BC because of weather and returned to Marpha same day.
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Tip & Top Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455606
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Franco Dellatorre M 1957 Switzerland Leader Claro, Ticino, Switzerland Mountain hut manager Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA194401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:259 (1995) -
DHA194401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:270 (1996) -
DHA194401 HIGH - - - 151:19 (Jun 1995) -
DHA194401 HIGH - - - 155:9-10 (Oct 1995) -
DHA194401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627001/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Solo-Attempt-in-Winter - - -
DHA194401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525901/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Attempt - - -