Dhaulagiri I | 1994 NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1994 via NE Ridge, led by Olivier Roduit. Summit reached on 25th September 1994. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1342
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA194303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Olivier Roduit
Sponsor Dhaulagiri Swiss Guides Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 61st,62nd,64th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-02
Summit Date 1994-09-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/09,4800m),C1(08/09,5700m),C2(11/09,6600m),C3(24/09,7200m),Smt(25-27/09)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at Col C2 on NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge. C3 established for summit push - tried first summit push when weather turned bad: 2 members in C2 on 18th Sept when over one meter of snow fell on them & descended next day because Radio Nepal reported continued bad weather for 3-4 days. On 2nd summit push C3 established & top reached. Baehler turned back from summit party; as oldest did not have ambition to go to top but to go as high as he felt like & 2 hrs before he fell he said on radio he felt too tired to go to summit "but I didn't care (about missing summit) its so marvelous up here." Probably he waited for Italian-Polish US team's summiters to go by so he could follow them. Pole was ahead of him (30-50m ahead) & American further behind, could not see Baehler when he fell by Pole who heard something & saw him sliding - no track of him fall seen in snow which was constantly windswept; ice ax found at probably point of fall; no attempt to go down N Face because it dangerously exposed to avalanches - his ice axe found 200m below about where his fall started. On 3rd Oct Perraudin said 25th Sept summiters took different lines just below summit & Caughron of Italian-Polish expedition explained 5 Oct 1994 that Swiss didn't know which was correct line to top on 25th Sept. Their member Paul (Amandruz) line to right with 2 Italians while Francois took line to left, which was wrong; it got him to 40m below summit & then impossible for him to go higher; without oxygen, ropes and teammates he hadn't strength to go down 200m, make long traverse to correct lines to right & up again (he had come up from C2 & descended to C2).
Accidents None except fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455530
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stephane Albasini M 1955 Switzerland Climber Vercorin, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Paul-Victor Amaudruz M 1962 Switzerland Climber Le Chable, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert Baehler M 1948 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Boven M 1959 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Gex M 1967 Switzerland Climber Verossaz, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francois Perraudin M 1956 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Journalist, mountain & ski guide Details Other expeditions
Olivier Roduit M 1965 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA194303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:257-258 (1995) -
DHA194303 AAJ Caughron, R. D. - - 69:258-259 (1995) -
DHA194303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525800/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Ascents-and-Tragedy - - -
DHA194303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525703/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Ascents-Attempts-and-Tragedies-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -