Dhaulagiri I | 1993 N Face direct

A Russia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1993 via N Face direct, led by Sergei Efimov. Summit reached on 11th May 1993. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1202
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA193101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face direct
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Sergei Efimov
Sponsor Russian-British Himalayas Expedition Dhaulagiri 1993
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 54th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Georgia, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-04-09
Summit Date 1993-05-11
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 10
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04,4600m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(29/04,7300m),C5(09/05,7550m),C6(10/05,7800m),Smt(11/05)
Route Notes BC due south of Sita Chuchura and due west of Tukuche Peak C1 at top of Icefall C2 on North Face C3 on North Face C4 on North Face C5 on North Face. From C1 had to go left to get around big crevasse. Above C3 difficult rock like roof tiler, some days covered with some snow, some days bare. 5th May start from BC to go top and 8th May arrived at C4, climbing with 2 tents. 9th made C5, stopped where snow cover began on 10th May. 11th May left C6 at 6:15 am for top; slept little that night at C6 because strong wind. 12th to C4 only because had no fixed rope there. Route is not easy to find: 60-degree wall but crossed it at 45-degrees steepness - good line.
Accidents Sedusov frostbitten feet (serious leg swelling, helicopter called)
Achievement -
Agency Mustang
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455027
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face direct

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard Frank (Rick) Allen M 1954 UK Climber Greenwich, London, England Petroleum engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bogomolov M 1951 Russia Climber Saratov, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bychkovski M 1956 Russia Exp Doctor Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Sergei Borisovich Efimov M 1944 Russia Leader Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Scientist Details Other expeditions
Alexei Lebedikhin M 1946 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Chief of sports department Details Other expeditions
Merabi Nemsitsveridze M 1959 Georgia Climber Kutaisi, Georgia President, alpine club Details Other expeditions
Valeri Pershin M 1948 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Ivan Plotnikov M 1960 Russia Climber Barnaul, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Boris Sedusov M 1950 Russia Climber Perm, Russia Business executive Details Other expeditions
Gia Tortladze M 1960 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Archeologist Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA193101 AAJ Allen, Rick A Different Way on Dhaulagiri - 68:30-34 (1994) -
DHA193101 AJ Allen, Rick Dhaulagiri on Cabbage Soup - 99:43-47 (1994) -
DHA193101 HIGH - - - 130:5 (Sep 1993) -
DHA193101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199403000/A-Different-Way-on-Dhaulagiri - - -
DHA193101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1994_files/AJ%201994%2041-47%20Allen%20Dhaulagiri.pdf - - -