Dhaulagiri I | 1992 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1992 via NE Ridge, led by Jon Lazkano. Summit reached on 3rd October 1992. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1119
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA192303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1992
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jon Lazkano
Sponsor Pol-Pol Bergara Dhaulagiri Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Myagdi Khola (& because of deep snow in eastern passes)
Basecamp Date 1992-09-15
Summit Date 1992-10-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1992-10-16
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due bad weather, porters ordered for 15th at BC and no strength
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,4700m),C1(20/09,5100m),C2(01/10,5800m),C3(03/10,6600m),xxx(03,11/10,6600m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 above icefall, which was in very bad condition C2 at North Col C3 at beginning of NE Ridge on wide slope High point at C3. All arrived BC in rain, including BC staff and porters sick with bronchitis, etc. 4-5 days later a few climbers up to C1 to put supplies, then down and up for one night but not in good condition and down. De Pablo only member who made serious attempt to climb mountain: 1st time in early Oct slept in C1, up to C2, down and up again. 3rd Oct from C2 to C3, down to C2 that night. 4th snowfall began and 5th down to BC helping other Spanish expedition's 2 members to descend, one with bad frostbite. 10th Oct De Pablo from BC to C2, 11th C3, 12th stayed in C3 and 13th afternoon big storm started and down to C2. 14th to BC in deep snow and avalanches every where. Porters had arrived at BC on 15th evening by prior arrangement, so 16th left BC. 1 member went to C2 only; not mentally prepared for the summit attempt on Dhaulagiri. Lazkano not interested in climb because tired from too much climbing elsewhere earlier in the year. Guenaga not really a climber but reached C2. When arrived at BC, other Spanish had fixed rope in icefall. De Pablo did not climb with members of other expedition.
Accidents Much sickness at begining; nothing else
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454806
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito M 1952 Spain Climber Iurreta, Vizcaya, Spain Biologist & tour guide Details Other expeditions
Damaso Gallastegui Aguirre M 1958 Spain Climber Bergara, Guipuzcoa, Spain Secondary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Luis Guenaga Zangitu M 1957 Spain Exp Doctor Bergara, Guipuzcoa, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Jon Lazkano Agirre M 1969 Spain Leader Bergara, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA192303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:235-236 (1993) -
DHA192303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199323502/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Post-Monsoon-Northeast-Ridge-Attempts - - -