Dhaulagiri I | 1991 NE Ridge

A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1991 via NE Ridge, led by Wanda Rutkiewicz. Summit reached on 15th October 1991. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 534
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA191305
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Wanda Rutkiewicz
Sponsor Caravan to Dream 8000 x 8 - to Dhaulagiri
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-10-05
Summit Date 1991-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1991-11-04
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/10,4730m),C1(09/10,5780m),C2(14/10,6780m),xxx(28/10,7100m)
Route Notes BC at normal BC area C1 at NE Col C2 on NE Ridge High point near to NE Ridge. 2 members reached 7100m in work to prepare route for Wanda R.; at 7400m was Japanese camp which Poles were permitted to use. On 15th very strong wind, 18-20 degrees cloudy and snowing, so left tent and full range of gear there at 7100m and down to C2 and next day to C1. Then all to BC waiting for Wanda, who was expected to arrive 20 Oct or there after. Malinowski went to Marpha and Jomsom to enquire from KTM about Wanda's whereabouts. Now every afternoon snowing, cloudy and winter temperatures had set in and life at BC difficult. With continuous snowfall feared impossible or very expensive to get porters to evacuate loads via passes. Also getting time to return to Kathmandu to organize winter Manaslu expedition. On 28th Gasienica-Jozkowy to depot and brought it down. Left BC 31 Oct and met Wanda at Marpha. Jedlinski left BC 4 Nov with porters with loads. Wanda and Gasienica-Jozkowy went to BC. Wanda arrived at BC 7 Nov, day after all had left BC, including BC staff; had had no news of Wanda, who was due to arrive on 20 Oct and if had not evacuated equipment then, all would have been lost because one week later porters could not cross passes. One member had expected to go back with her to Dhaulagiri: she met party at Marpha on 2nd and took time to organize return to BC. After arrived at BC, on 8th snow began following and continued with heavy snowfall on 10th, and would jeopardize Manaslu and left BC 11 Nov, reached Marpha only on 14th with 3 bivs.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454451
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stanislaw Barabas M 1959 Poland Climber Lublin, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Arkadiusz (Arek) Gasienica-Jazkowy M 1967 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Jedlinski M 1946 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Farmer Details Other expeditions
Ulrike Lumetzberger F 1955 Austria Exp Doctor Linz, Upper Austria, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Piotr Malinowski M 1944 Poland Deputy Leader Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wanda Rutkiewicz F 1943 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Photographer, writer & lecturer Details Other expeditions
Jolanta Sawicka F 1953 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland High school English teacher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA191305 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:226 (1992) -
DHA191305 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199222602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Post-Monsoon-Northeast-Ridge-Ascents-and-Attempts - - -