Dhaulagiri I | 1991 W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar)
A USSR expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1991 via W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar), led by Kazbek Valiev. Summit reached on 10th May 1991. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 761 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA191102 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USSR |
| Leaders | Kazbek Valiev |
| Sponsor | Dhaulagiri 1991 Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 48th,49th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Myagdi Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1991-04-02 |
| Summit Date | 1991-05-10 |
| Summit Time | 1000 |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 45 |
| Termination Date | 1991-05-17 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 10 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(02/04,3600m),C1(05/04,4700m),C2(12/04,5400m),C3(21/04,5700m),C4(28/04,6200m),C5(04/05,6800m),C6(09/05,7500m),Smt(10,13/05) |
| Route Notes | BC near Puchhar. Most difficult section from 5500m to 6200m: 80 degrees (6+ grade) bare rock - fixed ropes all the route from C1 to C5; some avalanches from C4 area, but dry snow and not big avalanches (this when new snowfell). More difficult rock climbing than Lhotse S Face, which mixed rock and ice and higher than Dhaulagiri - very strong winds and very cold. Dedi's hand broken when he was moving rock to make C1 site; he stayed at BC. In difficult rock section near C1, he fell several times but was attached to fix rope and fell only few meters and not hurt. Summit teams: 10 May - left C4 from 8:00 to 9:00 am; very fast very strong climbers on summit from 10:00 to 11:00 am, returned to C6 1:30 pm. 13 May - left C6 at 7:00 am, on summit from 11:00 to 12:00 am, returned to C6 3:00 pm and C5 7:00 pm. Expedition left BC 17 May. Route: W Face Center to snow slope above SW Pillar. |
| Accidents | Dedi broken hand |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Everest Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2454293 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face center (snow slope above sw pillar) |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anatoli Boukreev | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | Gorny Sadovod, Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinat Khabibulin | M | 1960 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati | M | 1951 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Dedi | M | 1959 | USSR | Climber | Karaganda, Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski | M | 1940 | USSR | Deputy Leader | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Valentin Makarov | M | 1947 | USSR | Exp Doctor | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Zaurbek Mizambekov | M | 1964 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Worker on tall buildings (washing and painting) | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Moiseev | M | 1954 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Prisjashny | M | 1963 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Savin | M | 1955 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Artur Shegai | M | 1961 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Souviga | M | 1953 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrei Tselischev | M | 1964 | USSR | Climber | Ust-Kamenogorsk, Kazakhstan, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev | M | 1952 | USSR | Leader, Manager | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Manager of international mountaineering camp | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA191102 | AAJ | Valiev, Kazbek | - | - | 66:224-226 (1992) | - |
| DHA191102 | MM | - | - | - | 140:7 (Jul 1991) | - |
| DHA191102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199222403/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-West-Face | - | - | - |