Dhaulagiri I | 1991 W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar)

A USSR expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1991 via W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar), led by Kazbek Valiev. Summit reached on 10th May 1991. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 761
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA191102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USSR
Leaders Kazbek Valiev
Sponsor Dhaulagiri 1991 Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 48th,49th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1991-04-02
Summit Date 1991-05-10
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 38
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1991-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 10
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,3600m),C1(05/04,4700m),C2(12/04,5400m),C3(21/04,5700m),C4(28/04,6200m),C5(04/05,6800m),C6(09/05,7500m),Smt(10,13/05)
Route Notes BC near Puchhar. Most difficult section from 5500m to 6200m: 80 degrees (6+ grade) bare rock - fixed ropes all the route from C1 to C5; some avalanches from C4 area, but dry snow and not big avalanches (this when new snowfell). More difficult rock climbing than Lhotse S Face, which mixed rock and ice and higher than Dhaulagiri - very strong winds and very cold. Dedi's hand broken when he was moving rock to make C1 site; he stayed at BC. In difficult rock section near C1, he fell several times but was attached to fix rope and fell only few meters and not hurt. Summit teams: 10 May - left C4 from 8:00 to 9:00 am; very fast very strong climbers on summit from 10:00 to 11:00 am, returned to C6 1:30 pm. 13 May - left C6 at 7:00 am, on summit from 11:00 to 12:00 am, returned to C6 3:00 pm and C5 7:00 pm. Expedition left BC 17 May. Route: W Face Center to snow slope above SW Pillar.
Accidents Dedi broken hand
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454293
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face center (snow slope above sw pillar)

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 USSR Climber Gorny Sadovod, Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Rinat Khabibulin M 1960 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati M 1951 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Victor Dedi M 1959 USSR Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski M 1940 USSR Deputy Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Valentin Makarov M 1947 USSR Exp Doctor Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Zaurbek Mizambekov M 1964 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Worker on tall buildings (washing and painting) Details Other expeditions
Yuri Moiseev M 1954 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Prisjashny M 1963 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Worker Details Other expeditions
Alexander Savin M 1955 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Artur Shegai M 1961 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Souviga M 1953 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Andrei Tselischev M 1964 USSR Climber Ust-Kamenogorsk, Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev M 1952 USSR Leader, Manager Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Manager of international mountaineering camp Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA191102 AAJ Valiev, Kazbek - - 66:224-226 (1992) -
DHA191102 MM - - - 140:7 (Jul 1991) -
DHA191102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199222403/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-West-Face - - -