Dhaulagiri I | 1990 NE Ridge

A Greece expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1990 via NE Ridge, led by Ioannis Katrivanos. Summit reached on 13th October 1990. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 660
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA190304
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Greece
Leaders Ioannis Katrivanos
Sponsor Athens Alpine Club Hellenic Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-13
Summit Date 1990-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 41
Termination Date 1990-10-24
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to poor health and Sherpa's disaffection
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,4600m),C1(17/09,4950m),C2(23/09,5600m),C3(30/09,6350m),C4(11/10,7450m),xxx(13/10,7600m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C2 at NE Col C3 at start of steep section of NE Ridge C4 at beginning of summit rocks (end of snow ridge). 12th Oct rested in C4, 13th started for summit and reached 7600m and gave up: Vroutsis with frostbitten fingers and toes (2nd degree) and Lambris coughing and feared pulmonary edema. Down to C3 in early afternoon, just as big 3-day snowstorm began and impossible to move for 3 nights and 2 days (other team's climbers bogged down too). 16th Oct all down and 17th all in BC. Now all members not feeling well and little help from "Sherpas." Sirdar announced he had finished climbing 10th Oct (wanted more money?) and other 2 "Sherpas" also gave up climb and said weather getting worse and time to go home; "it was a mistake." Doctor strong but had to accompany frostbite cases to Kathmandu. Entire team left BC 24th Oct.
Accidents Brokos frostbitten toes in C3 but not serious; Vroutsis frostbitten toes and fingers which probably will heal
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454083
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nikolaos Brokos M 1958 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Elementary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Panagiotis (Panos) Chlorokostas M 1961 Greece Exp Doctor Athens, Greece Physician Details Other expeditions
Dimitris Karagianis M 1954 Greece Deputy Leader Athens, Greece Topographer Details Other expeditions
Ioannis Katrivanos M 1941 Greece Leader Athens, Greece Businessman (owns cinema & other investments) Details Other expeditions
Christos Lambris M 1961 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Tour operator & photographer Details Other expeditions
Dimitrios Titopoulos M 1962 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Medical assistant Details Other expeditions
Evangelos Vroutsis M 1963 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA190304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:244 (1991) -
DHA190304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124401/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Autumn-Ascents - - -