Dhaulagiri I | 1990 NE Ridge

A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1990 via NE Ridge, led by Krzysztof Wielicki. Summit reached on 24th April 1990. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 409
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA190102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 E Face (to 7800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Krzysztof Wielicki
Sponsor Polish International Dhaulagiri E Face Exped. to Dhaulagiri
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 39th,41st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium, W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-04-16
Summit Date 1990-04-24
Summit Time 1050
Summit Days 8
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1990-05-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ItalianBC(26/03,3700m),BC(16/04,4650m),C1(07/04,5750m),C2(17/04,6800m),Biv(23/04,7000m),Dep(30/04,7450m),xxx; EFace(10/05,7800m),Smt(24/04,11/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at NE Col C2 on NE Ridge Biv on NE Ridge Depot on NE Ridge. For 1st 2 weeks separated out of Italian BC because of porter problems and moved to normal site only when Germans arrived and could use their porters (and now less snow). On 24th Wielicki went to summit from biv tent at 7000m (found from previous expedition) at 4:20 am and got to top 10:50 am and back to biv at 1:20 pm and down to BC same day (2 members were with him as far as biv and back). 30th April other 2 members made deposit at 7450m and that night tent crushed by snow; had to cut it open to get out and for them climb finished (Schleypen left BC). Gniadek not well now. Baeyens started 9th May up on normal route with Dujmovits of German team, using depot to sleep in enroute and got to top later than him and came down exhausted. 9th May 10 pm Wielicki started from NE Col; had to spend 2-3 hrs at 7800m trying to overcome difficult ice section on which kept slipping 1-2m (most difficult problem ever encountered; feared he could not solve it) and reacehd ridge 3:00 pm on 10th, when it started to snow; now decided not to go on up because of snowfall and was exhausted; retreated to depot/C3, surprised to find 2 people there and went down to biv where reached 8:00 pm and slept there; for first time in his career felt someone were with him; believe this is from great stress (not just difficulty) and looking for companionship.
Accidents Shleypen slight frostbite; Gniadek back problem
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453911
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ingrid M. Baeyens F 1956 Belgium Climber Ramsel, Antwerp, Belgium Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Janusz Gniadek M 1960 Poland Climber Bytom, Poland Metallurgical technician Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Kacuga M 1949 Poland Climber Walbrzych, Poland Metallurgical technician Details Other expeditions
Dariusz Pietak M 1958 Poland Climber Dabrowa Gornicza, Katowice, Poland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Ruediger Schleypen M 1937 W Germany Climber Freising, Bavaria, W Germany Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Wielicki M 1950 Poland Leader Tychy, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA190102 AAJ Wielicki, Krzysztof - - 65:241-242 (1991) -
DHA190102 MM - - - 134:9 (Jul 1990) -
DHA190102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124106/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-East-Face - - -