Dhaulagiri I | 1990 NE Ridge
A W Germany expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1990 via NE Ridge, led by Michel Dacher. Summit reached on 11th May 1990. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 410 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA190101 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | W Germany |
| Leaders | Michel Dacher |
| Sponsor | International Dhaulagiri Expedition 1990 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 40th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Austria, Italy, Netherlands, Switzerland |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-04-13 |
| Summit Date | 1990-05-11 |
| Summit Time | 1100 |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 30 |
| Termination Date | 1990-05-13 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(13/04,4750m),C1(17/04,5850m),C2(21/04,6650m),C3(09/05,7450m),Smt(11/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal site C1 at 2 snow caves and tents slightly above NE Col C2 where NE ridge starts getting steep (1 big snow cave 20m onto E Face and 3 tents) C3 at NE Ridge. 29th April Sirdar Wangel and Walde went from C1 to C2 and Ralf from BC to C2; all reached C2 area; Wangel was ahead, just a few meters from camp, when he set off slab avalanche and was carried 200m with avalanche down E Face; too dangerous to search for him on face and no sign of him. At beginning of climb very good weather but later much snowfall with some avalanche danger & spent lot of time doing nothing. 11th May Ralf and Ingrid Baeyens of Polish team left C4 for top at 5:00 am and Ralf on top at 11:00 am and Ingrid at 1:30 pm. On last part of ascent, from 7500m to 8000m, Dujmovits and Baeyens went onto N Face for safer climb. Joos and Dacher were one day behind summiters but Dacher turned back at 7000m on 10th and Joos got to area needing 2 ice axes but had only one and turned back at 7200m (other ice ax and other gear Joos says, should have been available from summiters but they stayed an extra day in C3 and that ruined the plan). Walde too was going up and got to 7200m. Six members and Schleypen from Polish team left BC 6th May having decided climb was over for them (Schleypen had frostbite). Walde wanted to try again but no one else did and Polish team also leaving. Left BC 13th May. |
| Accidents | Wangel fatal accident |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Thamserku Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453928 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eduard Birnbacher | M | 1969 | W Germany | Climber | Ruhpolding, Bavaria, W Germany | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Dacher | M | 1933 | W Germany | Leader | Peiting, Bavaria, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ralf Dujmovits | M | 1961 | W Germany | Deputy Leader | Buehlertal, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Karl Hub | M | 1938 | W Germany | Climber | Strasslach, Bavaria, W Germany | Official in government patent office | Details Other expeditions |
| Norbert Joos | M | 1960 | Switzerland | Climber | Gruesch, Graubunden, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Kunzendorf | M | 1936 | W Germany | Climber | Bad Abbach, Bavaria, W Germany | Construction engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Miller | M | 1961 | Austria | Exp Doctor | Bad Goisern, Upper Austria, Austria | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Hendrikus (Henk) Nooy | M | 1941 | Netherlands | Climber | Edam, Netherlands | Sales manager, printing office | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrea Schell | F | 1968 | Austria | Climber | Graz, Styria, Austria | Student of sports and geography | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans Steinbach | M | 1947 | W Germany | Climber | Heusenstamm, Hesse, W Germany | Shopkeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| Kurt Walde | M | 1962 | Italy | Climber | Brunico, Bolzano, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Wangel (Ongel) Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA190101 | AAJ | Dujmovits, Ralf | - | - | 65:241 (1991) | - |
| DHA190101 | MM | - | - | - | 134:9 (Jul 1990) | - |
| DHA190101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124105/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Ascent-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |