Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Laurent Lukie. Summit reached on 3rd December 1989. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 395
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA189401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1989
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Laurent Lukie
Sponsor Dhaulagiri Winter 1989
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Via Marshyangdi
Basecamp Date 1989-11-24
Summit Date 1989-12-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 15
Termination Date 1989-12-09
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5200m due to bad snow conditions
High Point (m) 5200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Tukuche (TUKU-894-01)
Campsites BC(24/11,4700m),xxx(03/12,5200m)
Route Notes BC at normal site High point at flat place between 2 sections of icefall. Snowed and rained for 72 hrs when arrived at BC. Profit's fixed ropes under 1m fresh snow: "crazy" says Lukie. To reach start of climb, must go through chest deep snow with hard crust after strong winds began. Were only 2 men climbers: Cousteix had cereberal edema and Beulne stayed with him at Marpha; they arrived at BC late. Doctor BC only, so only 2 men to break trail. At this time of year need skies. On 3rd Dec Besson and Lukie tried to go up and went only into icefall; to reach col with only 2 men in such snow conditions and new snowfall impossible. Ridge above N Col in good condition. Then porters to BC had had to wait 5 days at BC and on this retreat from BC one porter killed by avalanche off W Face on 28th Nov. They used much food at BC; sent cook and kitchen boy to Marpha for more supplies; they got lost trying to find French Pass; had to sleep out and Naike's feet froze. Beulne and Cousteix arrived in Nepal late and flew to Jomsom, Cousteix sick at Marpha; arrived BC 2 Dec (Beulne) and 8th Dec (Cousteix). Expedition left BC 9th Dec and had trouble getting out in deep snow. Only two members did any climbing on Dhaulagiri, for one member developed serious altitude sickness and another stayed at base camp with him. So with no climbing Sherpas they were too weak a party to break trail through chest-deep snow in a prolonged period of new snowfall. The NE Ridge above the North Col appeared to be in good condition, but it was impossible for only two men to even reach the col in such snow conditions. (It might have helped if they had brought skis). The two Dhaulagiri climbers, Besson and Lukie, plus Beulne, who had been with the sick man, did go over to nearby Mt. Tukuche and successfully scaled it by its NE Ridge.
Accidents 1 serious altitude sickness; 1 porter killed at BC
Achievement -
Agency Unknown
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453768
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Olivier Besson M 1962 France Climber Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Michel Beulne M 1950 France Climber Combloux, Haute-Savoie, France Bank manager Details Other expeditions
Guy Cousteix M 1950 France Climber Gaillard, Haute-Savoie, France Presents mountaineering film shows Details Other expeditions
Laurent Lukie M 1960 France Leader Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Philippe Michaud M 1941 France Exp Doctor Venissieux, Rhone, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Porter - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA189401 AAJ Lukie, Laurent - - 64:254 (1990) -
DHA189401 MM - - - 132:10 (Mar 1990) -
DHA189401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025403/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -