Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Alain Esteve. Summit reached on 25th September 1989. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 329
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA189303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Alain Esteve
Sponsor Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-09-11
Summit Date 1989-09-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1989-10-11
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to dangerous snow conditions
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 2
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6450m),xxx(25/09,7100m)
Route Notes BC at normal site for NE Ridge C1 just below NE Col C2 just below steep part of NE Ridge High point at NE Ridge. C2 slept in on 24th Sept for first time; next day 2 members & 4 Sherpas up from C2 to reach C3 in snowy weather; at 7100m at 1:00 pm reported by radio they had deposited their loads here, 200m below expected C3 site, because snowfall increasing. 2 Sherpas in descent disappeared; little avalanche pushed 2 members 10-15m while on fixed rope; no trace of Sherpas. Now heavy snowfall; three times up to C1 but snow too deep at col to go higher; last time was 10th Oct. 11th Oct reached C2 in snow up to top of legs. Decided climb too dangerous so dismantled C2.
Accidents 1 member Mailly edema; 1 member gastroenteritis (left BC Sep 19); 2 Sherpas fatal avalanche
Achievement -
Agency Amtrek
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453699
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Georges Derycke M 1949 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Warrant officer, military mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Alain Esteve M 1952 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Captain in Military Mountaineering School Details Other expeditions
Hubert Giot M 1954 France Deputy Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Lieutenant, Military Mountaineering School Details Other expeditions
Dominique Gleizes M 1963 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant in military mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Eric Gramond M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant in military mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Pierre Lavier M 1957 France Climber/Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician (Captain in Army Medical Corps) Details Other expeditions
Lionel Mailly M 1959 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Warrant officer, military mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Bernard Orcel M 1947 France Climber Nogent-sur-Marne, Val-de-Marne, France Major in Army Photographic Unit in Paris Details Other expeditions
Bruno Prom M 1965 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant in military mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Philippe Renard M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant in military mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Ajiwa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Sarki Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA189303 AAJ Esteve, Alain - - 64:253-254 (1990) -
DHA189303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025303/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt-and-Tragedy - - -