Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge
A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Alain Esteve. Summit reached on 25th September 1989. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 329 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA189303 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Alain Esteve |
| Sponsor | Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM) |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1989-09-11 |
| Summit Date | 1989-09-25 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 14 |
| Total Days | 30 |
| Termination Date | 1989-10-11 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7100m due to dangerous snow conditions |
| High Point (m) | 7100 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 2 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(11/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6450m),xxx(25/09,7100m) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal site for NE Ridge C1 just below NE Col C2 just below steep part of NE Ridge High point at NE Ridge. C2 slept in on 24th Sept for first time; next day 2 members & 4 Sherpas up from C2 to reach C3 in snowy weather; at 7100m at 1:00 pm reported by radio they had deposited their loads here, 200m below expected C3 site, because snowfall increasing. 2 Sherpas in descent disappeared; little avalanche pushed 2 members 10-15m while on fixed rope; no trace of Sherpas. Now heavy snowfall; three times up to C1 but snow too deep at col to go higher; last time was 10th Oct. 11th Oct reached C2 in snow up to top of legs. Decided climb too dangerous so dismantled C2. |
| Accidents | 1 member Mailly edema; 1 member gastroenteritis (left BC Sep 19); 2 Sherpas fatal avalanche |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Amtrek |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453699 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Georges Derycke | M | 1949 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Warrant officer, military mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Esteve | M | 1952 | France | Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Captain in Military Mountaineering School | Details Other expeditions |
| Hubert Giot | M | 1954 | France | Deputy Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Lieutenant, Military Mountaineering School | Details Other expeditions |
| Dominique Gleizes | M | 1963 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Sergeant in military mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Gramond | M | 1962 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Sergeant in military mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Lavier | M | 1957 | France | Climber/Exp Doctor | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Physician (Captain in Army Medical Corps) | Details Other expeditions |
| Lionel Mailly | M | 1959 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Warrant officer, military mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernard Orcel | M | 1947 | France | Climber | Nogent-sur-Marne, Val-de-Marne, France | Major in Army Photographic Unit in Paris | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruno Prom | M | 1965 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Sergeant in military mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Philippe Renard | M | 1962 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Sergeant in military mountaineering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Ajiwa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Sarki Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA189303 | AAJ | Esteve, Alain | - | - | 64:253-254 (1990) | - |
| DHA189303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025303/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |