Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Ignacio Olaizola. Summit reached on 21st September 1989. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 328
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA189302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Ignacio Olaizola
Sponsor Gipuzkopako Expedition Himalaya - to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-09-06
Summit Date 1989-09-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1989-10-16
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to dangerous snow conditions and wind
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5100m),C2(19/09,5700m),C3(21/09,6500m),xxx(21/09,6500m)
Route Notes C1 at plateau C2 at NE Col C3 on NE Ridge near big serac at start of ridge High point at C3. Try 3 times to go to C4. 1st time French Sherpa's fatal accident. Later too much snow and wind very dangerous even above C2. At mountain 40 days and only 2 days of sunshine all day. Glacier from BC to C1 very dangerous with crevasses opening (necessary to change the rope). Fixed 500m rope with French in this section.
Accidents 1 member pulmonary edema
Achievement -
Agency Amtrek
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453695
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joseba Aguirre M 1960 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Swimming instructor Details Other expeditions
Juan Carlos Arrieta Llopis M 1963 Spain Climber Errenteria, Guipuzcoa, Spain Baker Details Other expeditions
Josu Arrieta Azpiazu M 1955 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Gurutz Larranaga Lesaca M 1961 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Gardener Details Other expeditions
Fidel Olaizola Aizpiri M 1961 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Ignacio Olaizola Aizpiri M 1957 Spain Leader Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Swimming instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA189302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:253 (1990) -
DHA189302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025302/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Autumn-Attempts - - -