Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Oreste Forno. Summit reached on 11th May 1989. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	807
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	NE Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Oreste Forno
Sponsor	Citta di Oggiono Expedition to Dhaulagiri
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	37th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1989-04-25
Summit Date	1989-05-11
Summit Time	1145
Summit Days	16
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8167
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	10
Summit Members	2
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Attempted Everest after Dhaulagiri climb (DHA1-891-04)
Campsites	BC(25/04,4600m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(05/05,7000m),C4(10/05,7500m),Smt(11/05)
Route Notes	BC at normal site C1 at NE Col C2 at beginning of ridge steep slope C3 3/4 up slope C4 at normal site. No more on top because bad weather coming after 11th: everything set for Forno & Mandinelli to go to top, but would have had to wait few days & news came that Tibet opening. Wanted to climb Everest from Tibet, their original goal. Snow very bad; much snowfall few days before 11th May & slab avalanche danger. Highest point of Dhaulagiri is really all rock & many photos by "summiters" taken below this point. Argentinians left terrible mess of rubbish including medicine at BC.
Accidents	Zani fell in crevasse and hurt chest
Achievement	-
Agency	Trekking International
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2453562
Year	1989
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	ne ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	7229
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	01
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Oreste
Last Name	Forno
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Osnago, Como, Italy
Occupation	Electronic engineer
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2431950
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	oreste forno
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	38
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	7230
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	03
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Elisabetta
Last Name	Castellaro-Schranz
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Macugnaga, Novara, Italy
Occupation	Physician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2433331
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	elisabetta castellaro-schranz
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	7231
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	04
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Fausto
Last Name	De Stefani
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8167
Summit Date 1	1989-05-11
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1145
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	37
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2431920
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	fausto de stefani
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	7232
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	05
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Aristide
Last Name	Galbusera
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1929
Calculated Age	59
Citizenship	Italy
Status	BC Manager
Residence	Trecate, Novara, Italy
Occupation	Builder
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Left early
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2423717
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	aristide galbusera
Year of Birth	1929
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	60
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	7233
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	07
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Silvio
Last Name	Mondinelli
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2434312
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	silvio mondinelli
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	7234
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	08
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Claudio
Last Name	Schranz
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Macugnaga, Novara, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide & ski instructor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2431063
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	claudio schranz
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	7235
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	09
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Maurizio
Last Name	Simonetto
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Villasanta, Milano, Italy
Occupation	Electrician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Left early
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2432017
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	maurizio simonetto
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	7236
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	10
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Lino
Last Name	Zani
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1957
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Brescia, Italy
Occupation	Ski instructor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	1989-04-30
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	5
Injury Height (m)	5200
Death Notes	Injured by fall into crevasse; evacuated by helicopter
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2433831
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	lino zani
Year of Birth	1957
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	7237
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	06
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Sergio
Last Name	Martini
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Rovereto, Trento, Italy
Occupation	High school phys-ed teacher
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8167
Summit Date 1	1989-05-11
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1145
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	37
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2430996
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	sergio martini
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	28282
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Member ID	02
Peak ID	DHA1
Year	1989
Season	1
First Name	Graziano
Last Name	Bianchi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1937
Calculated Age	51
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Erba, Como, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2426694
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	graziano bianchi
Year of Birth	1937
Year	1989
Age at Expedition	52
Role	Member

10 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Oreste Forno	M	1951	Italy	Leader	Osnago, Como, Italy	Electronic engineer	Details Other expeditions
Elisabetta Castellaro-Schranz	F	1955	Italy	Exp Doctor	Macugnaga, Novara, Italy	Physician	Details Other expeditions
Fausto De Stefani	M	1952	Italy	Climber	Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Aristide Galbusera	M	1929	Italy	BC Manager	Trecate, Novara, Italy	Builder	Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli	M	1958	Italy	Climber	Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Claudio Schranz	M	1949	Italy	Climber	Macugnaga, Novara, Italy	Alpine guide & ski instructor	Details Other expeditions
Maurizio Simonetto	M	1952	Italy	Climber	Villasanta, Milano, Italy	Electrician	Details Other expeditions
Lino Zani	M	1957	Italy	Climber	Brescia, Italy	Ski instructor	Details Other expeditions
Sergio Martini	M	1949	Italy	Climber	Rovereto, Trento, Italy	High school phys-ed teacher	Details Other expeditions
Graziano Bianchi	M	1937	Italy	Climber	Erba, Como, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	535
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Reference ID	01
Year	1989
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Forno, Oreste
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1990
Language	-
Citation	64:252 (1990)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4486
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Reference ID	02
Year	1989
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1989
Language	-
Citation	128:15 (Jul 1989)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	11698
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	DHA189104
Reference ID	03
Year	1989
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025201/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
DHA189104	AAJ	Forno, Oreste	-	-	64:252 (1990)	-
DHA189104	MM	-	-	-	128:15 (Jul 1989)	-
DHA189104	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025201/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri	-	-	-