Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge

A Chile expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Mauricio Purto. Summit reached on 11th May 1989. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 797
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA189103
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Chile
Leaders Mauricio Purto
Sponsor Chilean Expedition to Dhaulagiri 1
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marpha->Dhampus & French Passes
Basecamp Date 1989-04-22
Summit Date 1989-05-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1989-05-14
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7170m due to bad weather and team's lack of strength
High Point (m) 7170
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Tukuche, SW summit (6990m) to acclimatize
Campsites BC(22/04,4650m),C2(27/04,5650m),C3(02/05,6400m),C4(10/05,7150m),xxx(11/05,7170m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 none C2 at C2 normal site - NE Col C3 at 50m above start of NE Ridge C4 at end of snow ridge and 100m below start of traverse High point at top of snow ridge. On 6th May [Purto and Casassa] down from C3 at 6400m to C2 because cloudy, snowing and windy; leader Purto to BC, other 2 climbers [Casassa and Ang Phurba] in C2. 9th May one member [Valle] up to meet Casassa in C2 and on up to C3 and then retreated because bad weather. 10th May 2 members [Valle and Casassa] to C4 (Purto not well enough now to go up) and 11th May up only 20m and down to C2. Climb finished because few climbers now too tired to continue. Arrived BC 14th May. Casassa decided he was finished, Valle wanted to try again but Purto not strong enough and Sherpas didn't want to go up. Had already had 3 attempts for summit and needed time to recover.
Accidents Purto bronchitis
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453562
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gino Casassa M 1958 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Cattoni M 1933 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Music teacher Details Other expeditions
Mauricio Ramon Purto Arab M 1961 Chile Leader/Exp Doctor Santiago, Chile Physician Details Other expeditions
Italo Carlo Valle Bottari M 1960 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Hotel manager Details Other expeditions
Rodrigo Mujica M 1963 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA189103 AAJ Purto, Mauricio - - 64:251-252 (1990) -
DHA189103 - Purto, Mauricio Everest, La Ruta Logica El Mercurio (the expedition), Santiago, Chile - P333
DHA189103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025104/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -