Dhaulagiri I | 1989 NE Ridge

A Argentina expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1989 via NE Ridge, led by Raul Uranga. Summit reached on 10th April 1989. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 809
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA189101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Argentina
Leaders Raul Uranga
Sponsor Argentine Expedition Himalaya 1989 - to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1989-03-20
Summit Date 1989-04-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1989-04-26
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7180m due to constant bad weather
High Point (m) 7180
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,4600m),C1(23/03,5100m),C2(02/04,5700m),C3(04/04,6680m),C4(10/04,7180m),xxx(23/04,7180m)
Route Notes BC at base of icefall between Tukuche and Dhaulagiri I C1 above icefall C2 at NE Col C3 on NE Ridge C4 on NE Ridge (summit of rocky ridge) High point at C4. Everyday storms: snow and winds up to 200 kph occasionally. Was great experience but maybe too early arrival (was very cold and stormy) and team not so strong. C4 destroyed twice by wind, C3 also destroyed by snow. Were worn out going up and down because of destruction and replacement of equipment. Fixed rope all route from C3 and C4 and a lot of route from BC to C1. Left BC 26th April. Expedition had originally been 9 members with 4 from Buenos Aires who organized it and 4 from mountains who are stronger climbers. When Argentinian currency devalued 60%, only half members could come and they were the people who had worked hard to organize it. None of those who came were sufficently strongly motivated to go for top on his own with couple of Sherpas.
Accidents Some frostnip and bronchitis
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453531
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gabriel Hector Aguilar M 1965 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Medical student Details Other expeditions
Marcelo Claudio Aguilar M 1957 Argentina Climber Martigny, Valais, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Bernardo Werner Lyon M 1957 Argentina Climber Vicente Lopez, Buenos Aires, Argentina Maritime engineer Details Other expeditions
Sebastian Sturla M 1965 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Medical student Details Other expeditions
Raul Uranga M 1941 Argentina Leader Geneva, Switzerland Senior economist with UN Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA189101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:253 (1990) -
DHA189101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025301/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempts - - -