Dhaulagiri I | 1988 NE Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1988 via NE Ridge, led by Cho Chung-Sool. Summit reached on 14th November 1988. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 841
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA188304
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Cho Chung-Sool
Sponsor 1988 Korean Himalaya Dhaulagiri, Tukuche Peak Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 36th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-10-25
Summit Date 1988-11-14
Summit Time 1610
Summit Days 20
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1988-11-16
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Tukuche (TUKU-883-01)
Campsites BC(25/10,4700m),C1(29/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6620m),C3(02/11,7300m),C4(04/11,7800m),Smt(14/11)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 a little below NE Col (south of col) C2 on NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge C4 on NE Ridge. 5th and 6th Nov tried twice to go to summit, but winds drove them back both times from about 7900m, so all down to BC. 11th Nov started up for top: 2 Sherpas and 1 Korean; in C3 on 12th Nov, C4 on 13th and 14th to summit in cold, cloudy but little wind. Left C4 9:00 am, on summit 4:10 pm and bived at 8:00 pm at c8000m in snowhole in down jackets. 4 Sherpas in C4 on 13th evening with Choi because planned 2nd summit attack, but on 15th leader decided cancel that: one team already on top and Jomsom flight booked for 18th. BC to C1 dangerous icefall; above NE Col always wind. Fixed 700-800m rope (which had been assigned to Tukuche). Only 6 Koreans climbed because fire on approach march destroyed gas, high altitude food and equipment including rope and thus altered entire climbing program. Tukuche summit Jun Jae-Young, Lee Sang-Hun, Park Youk-Kwang and Wangchu on 15th Nov. C2 on 6500m NW Ridge on Nepal Army route and reached NW summit. BC between Dhampus and French Passes at 4000+m and C1 5800m on NW Ridge. Went to NW peak by mistake: thought they went to main summit; found were on wrong summit after descent and discussion with Ang Dorje, who went to top with Koreans in Autumn 1985. Dhaulagiri And Tukuche NW Ascent by Busan Joint Expedition The expedition of 12 members was led by Cho Jung-Sul. They hoped to climb the north side of Dhaulagiri and Tukuche, and then they had traversed both of two peaks 27 km long ridge. But unfortunately, the team ventured to do climbing suffered of great damages of 2000 kg materials by fire because of the mistakes of the employees on the way of caravan. They started with the thinking of burden, should finish quickly the climbing, because the foods and equipments are in short. They established BC at 4700m on Oct 25th. Japanese team had been already evacuated. The day after leading party Ryu Il-Keun and Choi Tae-Sik rushed to C1 with two Sherpas. Fixed rope in 800m rock step and 150m snow plastered. At first, they followed previous party's (Japanese party) route. But the route turned out dangerous and then decided to changing route in order to avoid the avalanche. On Oct 27th, they established C1 at 5800m and they found the foods and equipment left by Japanese team near the C2. Although the bad weather they set up C2 and C3 6620m and 7400m. It was more worse afer making the C4 at 7800m on Nov 5th. Ryu was confined alone at C4 because of traditionally poor Dhaulagiri weather - deep snow. Wind was strong and temperature dropped to -40 degrees C. In spite of bad weather Ryu and Seo Sung-Soo had left C4 toward the summit on Nov 7th but they had to stop the below the Rock Band in deteriorating weather. All members forced descended to BC. On Nov 14th Choi and two Sherpas had left C4 for the summit at 09:00. After more than six hours of climbing they encountered the three peaks at 8160m. That was the last obstacle below the summit and finally they reached the top at 16:00. They climbed slowly down to C4 but became to dark and they had to bivouacked below the rock band at 8050m without sleeping bag or stove. Choi had suffered frostbite. Ryu and two Sherpas who waited for the second attack at C4 descended to BC escorting the first attack party. The team was given up the 2nd attempt because of bad weather and a lack of food. All members descended to BC at 22:00 on Nov 24th. They used no artificial oxygen for climbing on Nov 16. Tukuche party Park Yuk-Kwang, Lee Sang-Hoon and Jeon Jae-Yong stood on the top of Tukuche northwest peak. The team failed "the long traverse" but succeeded on the climbing of two peaks. The member Choi Tae-Sik should cut the toe and fingers due to the frostbite.
Accidents Choi frostbitten toes both feet, will heal; Sherpas slight finger frostbite
Achievement 1st Korean ascent of Dhaulagiri I
Agency Adventure Nepal
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453383
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chung-Sool Cho M 1946 S Korea Leader Busan (Pusan), S Korea President, frozen-fish company Details Other expeditions
Tae-Sik Choi M 1960 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Jae-Young Jun M 1959 S Korea Climber Buchon, Gyeonggi, S Korea Mountaineering equipment shop owner Details Other expeditions
Hyo-Jang Kim F 1966 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Ki-Byoung Kim M 1934 S Korea BC Manager Busan (Pusan), S Korea Electronic-appliances shop owner Details Other expeditions
Sang-Hun Lee M 1960 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sang-Tae Lee M 1961 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Il-Keun Lyu M 1960 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Office worker in mountaineer-equipment shop. Details Other expeditions
Chul-Sae Park M 1965 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Ship designer Details Other expeditions
Youk-Kwang Park M 1958 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Shop manager Details Other expeditions
Seong-Soo Seo M 1959 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Dae-Hyo Yoon M 1956 S Korea Deputy Leader Busan (Pusan), S Korea Food supermarket owner Details Other expeditions
Da Gombu Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Cheremy, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Wangel (Ongel) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA188304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:223 (1989) -
DHA188304 MM - - - 125:11 (Jan 1989) -
DHA188304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198922302/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-and-Tukuche-Northwest - - -