Dhaulagiri I | 1987 E Face-NE Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1987 via E Face-NE Ridge, led by Stane Belak. Summit reached on 4th December 1987. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 324
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA187402
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1987
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Stane Belak
Sponsor Slovene Dhaulagiri Winter Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 34th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jomsom->Marpha->Hidden Valley->Thapa Khola->Larjung->BC
Basecamp Date 1987-11-27
Summit Date 1987-12-04
Summit Time 1700
Summit Days 7
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/11,4150m),Biv1(01/12,5500m),Biv2(02/12,5900m),Biv3(03/12,6600m),Biv4(04/12,8000m),Smt(04/12)
Route Notes Face in bad condition: all rock and powder of rock which wind carried and went in to climber's lungs. Had already planned to go from face to NE Ridge at about 6000m and this they did. Did not intend this time to go high on face as in Autumn 1985. Followed 1985 route to 5900m plateau; most of rest of route above was 1981 descent route. Reached normal route at 6000m. Route followed was same as in Spring 1986 with difference, this time route completed. Last 200m was SW, winds up to 200 kph and climbers had to go on hands and knees. Belak and Kozjek tried for summit twice [4 Dec and 7 Dec]. Did acclimatization in Dhampus Pass-French pass area on small unnamed peak.
Accidents Kozjek developed serious pulmonary edema and had slight frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453036
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) e face-ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Designer, hospital furniture Details Other expeditions
Pavle Kozjek M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Polhov Gradec, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Marjan Kregar M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Toolmaker Details Other expeditions
Iztok Tomazin M 1960 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Krize, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA187402 AAJ Belak, Stane - - 62:224-225 (1988) -
DHA187402 HJ Belak, Stane Dhaulagiri - 45:181-183 (1987-1988) -
DHA187402 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
DHA187402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198822403/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Ascent - - -
DHA187402 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/45/22/expeditions-and-notes-45/ - - -