Dhaulagiri I | 1987 NE Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1987 via NE Ridge, led by Marc Batard. Summit reached on 2nd December 1987. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 318
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA187401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1987
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Marc Batard
Sponsor Dhaulagiri 1987 - First Winter French Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 33rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Sherpas & Batard->BC via trek (Batard->Jomsom)
Basecamp Date 1987-11-15
Summit Date 1987-12-02
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 17
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1987-12-09
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 9
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/11,4700m),C1(18/11,6000m),C2(23/11,7100m),Smt(02/12)
Route Notes C1 above NE Col at start of NE Ridge (in ice cave) C2 on East Face just near ridge (again ice cave). Took special ice cutting tool from Chamonix to make huge ice cave at C1 and C2; only little fixed rope in place so put over 2000m of rope from 6600m to 7600m for Sherpas and other French members. Batard to BC 29th Nov, rested at BC 30th Nov and 1st Dec and up from BC with 2 French and 4-5 Sherpas. Batard and Sungdare to C2 on 1st Dec, other 4-5 climbers to C1. 2nd Dec Batard and Sungdare at 5:30 am from C2 and reached top 12:30 pm and to C3. 3rd Dec down from C2 to BC. Other French did not go above C1 because of some illness and some not psychologically prepared to tackle seracs and crevasses of Dhaulagiri. Batard tried on 6th Dec for top but wind too strong to reach C2. Batard left BC 8th Dec and others on 9th Dec.
Accidents Marcelot altitude sickness; Sungdare some frostbite (fingers & toes) but will heal
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453034
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lionel Andre M 1959 France Climber Le Plessis-Trevise, Val-de-Marne, France Teacher, music Details Other expeditions
Louis Audoubert M 1935 France Climber Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France Mountaineering equipment advisor Details Other expeditions
Marc Marie Bernard Batard M 1951 France Leader Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Annie Dubois F 1947 France Climber Evain-les-Bains, Haute-Savoie, France Chemist Details Other expeditions
Claude Gyuran M 1965 France Climber Pierrefontaine, France Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Patrick Marcelot M 1952 France Climber Aubiere, Puy-de-Dome, France Government officer Details Other expeditions
Dominique Planche M 1961 France Climber Chamalieres, Puy-de-Dome, France Government officer Details Other expeditions
Francois Poissonnier M 1946 France Climber Vic-le-Comte, Puy-de-Dome, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurice Uguen M 1948 France Climber La Suze-sur-Sarthe, Sarthe France Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA187401 AAJ Batard, Marc - - 62:224 (1988) -
DHA187401 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
DHA187401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198822402/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Ascent - - -