Dhaulagiri I | 1987 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1987 via NE Ridge, led by Tatsuhisa Mitoma. Summit reached on 6th October 1987. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 288
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA187301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tatsuhisa Mitoma
Sponsor Fukuoka Tozan Kemkyu Kai Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kali Gandaki->Dhampus and French Passes
Basecamp Date 1987-09-03
Summit Date 1987-10-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 41
Termination Date 1987-10-14
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7050m due to lack of rope for fixing and lack of time
High Point (m) 7050
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,4650m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(26/09,6650m),xxx(06/10,7050m)
Route Notes BC at 4650m at normal site below icefall C1 near Col C2 on NE Ridge High point on NE Ridge. Icefall very difficult this season and needed 1000m fixed ropes so took long time to reach C1. Fixed rope to 7050m on 6th Oct and down to C2 and C1 for rest. 11th Oct up from C2 to make C3 but snow bridge at 6750m broken and rope gone and down to C1 and climb finished: no rope, no time and only making route for E Face who also came to NE Ridge so "no heart" to continue climb. An avalanche on 30th Sep caused by Americans took out Japanese rope. Snow bridge probably broken by opening of crevasse: many crevasses this season, many opening up while team was on mountain. Planned C3 at 7400m but not possible to fix rope this high to make summit attack from this camp. 3 left BC 14th Oct. Had taken 2000m of rope but did not have enough.
Accidents Sirdar pulmonary edema; others hurt hand; Mitoma sick 1st 2 weeks at BC
Achievement -
Agency Sagarmatha
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452977
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kunitoshi Fujiwara M 1951 Japan Exp Manager Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker, city government Details Other expeditions
Koji Hayashi M 1964 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Student, commerce (in University) Details Other expeditions
Shunji Hiasa M 1957 Japan Exp Doctor Kaho-ku, Fukuoka, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Tatsuhisa Mitoma M 1950 Japan Leader Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Landscape architect Details Other expeditions
Niru Zambu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Koji Yada M 1948 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA187301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:223 (1988) -
DHA187301 IWA - - - :280 (1988) -
DHA187301 IWA - - - :74 (1988) -
DHA187301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198822303/Asia-Nepal-Japanese-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -