Dhaulagiri I | 1986 NE Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1986 via NE Ridge, led by Cho Jung-Sul. Summit reached on 25th December 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 896
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA186401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Cho Jung-Sul
Sponsor 1986-87 Korean Himalaya Winter Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-11-24
Summit Date 1986-12-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 31
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8025m due to frostbite and weather (especially high winds)
High Point (m) 8025
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/11,4700m),C1(02/12,5400m),C2(06/12,6700m),C3(22/12,7400m),xxx(25/12,8025m)
Route Notes BC at usual site C2 on NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge High point at NE Ridge. Route not via N Col because this way very difficult with many crevasses so climbed slghtly west of col. After C2 established, very strong wind and snow almost waist deep with tents broken and supplies lost. 2 weeks of bad weather - then good weather and 2 summit attacks on 24th and 25th Dec by Chung and Sirdar Ang Dorje. On 24th to 7800mm and on 25th to 8025m, but then very strong winds and very cold so turned back; somewhat frostbitten so their climb finished. Chung and Ang Dorje frostbitten fingers and toes on 25th. Kim worse frostbitten toes 7 and 8 Dec and then to BC and Marpha for rest of expedition (took 3 days to Marpha because of deep snow). Then 1 coolie got frostbite. No illness or accidents although one snow avalanche almost covered 3 members. Ang Phurba said he was sick and returned KTM early but really left for some other reason.
Accidents Ang Dorje frostbitten fingers & toes on Dec 25; Kim frostbitten toes Dec 7-8 (to BC and Marpha for rest of expedition); no illness and accidents although snow avalanche almost covered 3 members
Achievement -
Agency Adventure Nepal
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452691
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chung-Sool Cho M 1946 S Korea Leader Busan (Pusan), S Korea Businessman Details Other expeditions
Sang-Kyun Chung M 1955 S Korea Climber Ulsan, S Korea Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jin-Goun Kim M 1961 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Machine engineer (rifle maker) Details Other expeditions
Hag-Sul Yang M 1961 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Machine engineer (rifle maker) Details Other expeditions
Dae-Hyo Yoon M 1956 S Korea Climber Busan (Pusan), S Korea Worker, government office (Korean new village movement) Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA186401 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:256 (1987) -
DHA186401 MM - - - 116:9 (Jul 1987) -
DHA186401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725603/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Attempt-by-Koreans - - -