Dhaulagiri I | 1986 NE Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1986 via NE Ridge, led by James Merel. Summit reached on 5th October 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 941
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA186303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders James Merel
Sponsor Haute Tarentaise Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-24
Summit Date 1986-10-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1986-10-08
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to dangerous snow conditions
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/09,4600m),C1(25/09,4900m),C2(26/09,5600m),xxx(05/10,6100m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 just above icefall C2 at Col High point at snow slope below steep ridge. Late Sept a lot of snow: 27 Sept more than 1 meter snow at BC, so stayed in BC for 7 days while snow kept falling. 2 Oct started up from BC and on 3rd reached C2 but camp in bad condition and avalanching going on. Stayed 4 days at C2 with one day 40 cm snowfall. 4 Oct tried to reach C3 site at 6300m but could not go above 6100m because very dangerous snow ("we swam in snow"), so down to BC 6th Oct and called off climb because no chance to reach summit. 1st Oct was big avalanche from top of Dhaulagiri and its blasts of air hit BC. Left BC 8 or 9 Oct.
Accidents None ('We stopped before any accident occurred')
Achievement -
Agency Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452610
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pierre Beguin M 1959 France Climber Bourg St. Maurice, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christian Bougnaud M 1948 France Climber Bourg St. Maurice, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
James Merel M 1958 France Leader Bourg St. Maurice, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michel Poencet M 1946 France Climber La Giettaz, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Regis Rolland M 1960 France Climber Villard-de-Lans, Isere, France Ski instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA186303 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:256 (1987) -
DHA186303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725601/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -